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Wednesday, November 7, 2007

surfing solitude


With the local beaches closed out and crowded, with a strong drift besides, I decided to try another spot.
I headed just a little bit south to a reef that works at the right tide. When I was checking it there were 2 guys out and it looked fun. By the time I got my stuff together, they had gotten out and were heading down the beach.
So there I was with no one out and glassy waves rolling in .I paddled out and got a few fun ones and was enjoying the clear water and change of scenery.
I was a little uneasy being alone out there. The sets were a bit overhead and some closed quickly, a nice drop and bottom turn before picking my way through the boils of submerged rocks. I couldn`t stop thinking "what if I got tossed into the rocks? " I`ve often thought it`d be great to get some place all to yourself ( and I would love to get Swami`s, Rincon, or 56th all alone) but alone today surfing through the rocks kinda creeped me.
I had a few good waves but would have liked a little company


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