Sunday, September 30, 2012

Newport Championships

good weather and SW swell in the water.  (These shots don`t show the hightide backwash that would blast you right off the wave face )I`ll wait for the tide to drop and hope the wind stays down.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Wednesday, September 26, 2012


surf was good all over this AM, I surfed 56th but it was good everywhere

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

West swell

Nice morning, looking for good surf as the tide drops

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Day #21,595

Today is my 21,595th morning alive. Beautiful sunrise , warm water. I`m so grateful for life Lord. Help me to always cherish the world you`ve given.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Last of summer

There has been good surf all this week with good conditions holding till mid-day. I really had fun today, lots of waves

Monday, September 17, 2012

TS Kristy

 S.E.swell threw some nice surf our way, made for a nice long lunch break.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Weekday surf

Very hot inland but cool here, not much swell but fun enough water.near 70 again

Tuesday, September 11, 2012


Remember always,,,,

(my apologies to whoevers art I lifted here, nice work)

Thursday, September 6, 2012

2012-09-06 Early bird special

I got in early to catch more of this swell while it lasts. Georgeous sunrise with fast wally lefts

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Red Flag

Competition at the peak was tough , I floated wide to pick up the crumbs...tasty,tasty crumbs!

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

back to school !

My favorite time of year began today!
                                   Swell smaller but conditions were clean and the crowd was way down. I got more waves than usual, having a great time till hightide backwash became a problem. Grateful!

Sunday, September 2, 2012

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Perfect storm

All the elements for the perfect storm have come together- long Labor Day weekend, withering heatwave inland, and swells from a large southern Hemi combined with short period hurricane swell from Baja. You can expect to see anything and everything out there this weekend. Heads up and smile in the line-up!