Sunday, September 30, 2012

Newport Championships

good weather and SW swell in the water.  (These shots don`t show the hightide backwash that would blast you right off the wave face )I`ll wait for the tide to drop and hope the wind stays down.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

2012-09-26

surf was good all over this AM, I surfed 56th but it was good everywhere

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

West swell

Nice morning, looking for good surf as the tide drops

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Day #21,595

Today is my 21,595th morning alive. Beautiful sunrise , warm water. I`m so grateful for life Lord. Help me to always cherish the world you`ve given.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Last of summer

There has been good surf all this week with good conditions holding till mid-day. I really had fun today, lots of waves

Monday, September 17, 2012

TS Kristy

 S.E.swell threw some nice surf our way, made for a nice long lunch break.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Weekday surf

Very hot inland but cool here, not much swell but fun enough water.near 70 again

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

9-11

Remember always,,,,


(my apologies to whoevers art I lifted here, nice work)

Thursday, September 6, 2012

2012-09-06 Early bird special

I got in early to catch more of this swell while it lasts. Georgeous sunrise with fast wally lefts

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Red Flag

Competition at the peak was tough , I floated wide to pick up the crumbs...tasty,tasty crumbs!

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

back to school !

My favorite time of year began today!
                                   Swell smaller but conditions were clean and the crowd was way down. I got more waves than usual, having a great time till hightide backwash became a problem. Grateful!


Sunday, September 2, 2012

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Perfect storm

All the elements for the perfect storm have come together- long Labor Day weekend, withering heatwave inland, and swells from a large southern Hemi combined with short period hurricane swell from Baja. You can expect to see anything and everything out there this weekend. Heads up and smile in the line-up!