Monday, December 28, 2009

winter afternoon,glassy all day,silverswells shimmering in the setting sun. "you want this one?'" the silhouetted stranger asked, "please" I said, "enjoy!" I heard him say as I slipped over the ledge into green shadow. True story
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Sunday, December 27, 2009


The Pacific just keeps the presents rolling in. Bigger , but none of the forecast rain, cold offshores instead 
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Saturday, December 26, 2009

gray day

Gray, skies, gray water, glassy sea. There was not a lot of punch but the crowd was light and some surf was relaxing.It`s supposed to be big and rainy tomorrow, so I figured I`d surf today, don`t know about tomorrow  
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Friday, December 25, 2009

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Merry Christmas Eve

  Not much swell, the Blackies crew serving pancakes and sausage on the beach, most people not working but just hanging out on a sunny December day. Count your blessings and enjoy the Season!Thank you Lord!
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Monday, December 21, 2009


While out surfing this afternoon someone watched me hide my key on the beach and burgled my car. They lifted my credit cards and ID and then put my keys and everything back so I wouldn`t notice for awhile. The thief immediately went shopping at Albertson`s for $400 worth of booze and filet mignon. Lucky for me the checker recognized our family name on the card and suspected something. She kept the card and the guy ran off. I was able to cancel the other cards before he could try them. I will have to start being more careful. Merry Christmas! 
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winter starts

The surf didn`t look like much this AM but it built all day, stayed pretty smooth and the crowd was light . I had to bail on work and get a few this afternoon 
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Sunday, December 20, 2009

Good start

Not a lot of punch but a clean smooth mellow morning. 
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Friday, December 18, 2009


after a rough week the surf tonight was the perfect end to the work week 
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Thursday, December 17, 2009


Rough day for not much money, scary stories about the economy from other contractors, alot of stress, but at the end of the day a scene like this takes the edge off and you give thanks for the glory of creation. Everything will work itself out. 
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Wednesday, December 16, 2009

set wave

 No energy today, I had all day to surf but no swell
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Tuesday, December 15, 2009


The surf looked fun this morning but I`d better just get my job going today 
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Monday, December 14, 2009

mental health day.

I had work today but blew it off till tomorrow, in the interest of my own mental health.The surf was OK and the hour or so of wave-riding was much needed.

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Sunday, December 13, 2009

hunker down

It`s a good day to just settle in and relax. Cold,wet and windy at the beach. Relax and enjoy your blessings.
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Friday, December 11, 2009

Tomorrow night at Hurley,CM with free beer from Primo.

Thursday, December 10, 2009


I finally got in the water again, I was able to rationalize my time away from the job with the old "life`s too short, enjoy it while you can" cliche.( That one happens to be true.) It felt great to get wet and snag a few set waves. Going back to work was hard but I felt so much better having surfed an hour.
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Thursday morning 12/10

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Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Wednesday swell

I had to drive by these waves on my way to work this morning. I stopped to watch for a few minutes but a looming completion deadline and the threat of rain tomorrow kept me on the job all day. The surf got better as the day progressed and it was really good late morning
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