Monday, August 31, 2009

last of August

Still smooth after work and some good waves on the tide push. Warm air, warm water and some waves for logging. Blessed again 
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Saturday, August 29, 2009

Friday night gone bad..

Sometimes the dawn patrol reveals ugly remnants of the night before. I came acrosss a crime scene clean-up crew working at dawn this morning.Broken plate glass and bloody sidewalk,this scene could not have ended well for those involved
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Gracias Ignacio

Our swell continues, today TS Ignacio sent some inconsistent but clean surf to the east side of the pier 
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Friday, August 28, 2009


Had a long, hot day at work. I stopped on the way home to wash the dust off and get another taste of our south swell before going home for dinner.
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Thursday, August 27, 2009


Went to Trestles today- more sunny day, more overhead south swell, more guys in the water,the crowd was competitive and brutal,but still a great way to start the day.
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Wednesday, August 26, 2009


Same old sunny day, same old beach, same old head-high south swell, so repetitive..thanks Lord, this is great

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Tuesday, August 25, 2009

tues 8/25

Nice swell still rolling, still walled and crowded. I spent an hour competing for waves, got a few ,but the late morning backwash finally chased me out. 
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Monday, August 24, 2009

Sw walls

Our local beaches aren`t taking this swell very well, most places are walled and crowded.  
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Saturday, August 22, 2009

More Ventura Co.

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Ventura Co.

The U.S. navy hosted a surf contest today. The surf was challenged by the hjgh-tide, backwash and bouncy conditions but still threw up some good sections 
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Friday, August 21, 2009

blew the dust off

Finally some swell showing, inconsistent and high tide but it felt good to blow the dust off and get in the water 
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Thursday, August 20, 2009

still weak

It`s hard to get excited over anything rolling onto our local beaches, looking forward to Saturday
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Monday, August 17, 2009

low energy

Not much out there and it`s gonna get worse before it gets better. A good week to get things done. 
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Saturday, August 15, 2009

Waiting for Guillermo

I was at the SE spot looking for swell fom TS Guillermo, surfed there but it just wasn`t the right angle/tide/?Maybe tomorrow. 
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Thursday, August 13, 2009


2mm spring suit, waist high and glassy, inconsistent but better than nothing 
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Monday, August 10, 2009

workday surf

The swell is dropping and conditions were funky but the water is warmer, nice to take a break from work for a short surf break 
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