Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Monday, February 25, 2008
Sunday, February 24, 2008
I`ve recently finished reading a book titled "Molokai" that dealt with old Hawaii and leprosy. It was a good book and well researched. Surfing has been an integral part of Hawaiian culture for centuries, and petroglyphs of surfers are carved in stone.
When Capt. Cooke first sailed through the area in the late 1700`s he witnessed the locals surfing for the pure joy of it.Missionaries followed the traders into the islands in the 1820`s to bring Christ to the native Hawaiians. The Gospel message was well received by the islanders ,but the Calvinist Christians aslo brought a strict work ethic, modesty , and religious piety. Surfing was deemed to be a waste of time and the fact that it was done while scantily clad was a problem to the missionaries. Surfing fell into a decline as the locals tried to follow the new teachings.
So here I am in 2008 with a deep love for Jesus Christ and surfing both. What has happened over the last 180 years that I can surf without fear of offending the Lord or my church. I consider surfing to be a gift from God where I can enjoy his creation , riding swells generated by his wind blowing over his ocean to his beaches.
I believe the missionaries had only the best intentions for the Hawaiians, the Bible calls us to spread the Word to all nations. Perhaps surfing was just to much of a distraction and had to be stopped for the message to sink in.
I am grateful that I`ve been able to combine both God`s love and surfing in my life.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Friday, February 15, 2008
One of my favorite rock songs , great lyrics and imagery. I remember it being used in a surf movie long ago ( Forgotten Island of Santosha?) and it was the perfect soundtrack for fluid surfing in some exotic tropical waters. I was probably 17 and had snuck in the back door of the Surf theatre in old HB
Thursday, February 14, 2008
I try to put up my own pics most days, but every now and then I`ll lift one off the web. This photo was taken by a local Rincon photog named Simba, and I couldn`t resist. The guy takes these great,fluid shots . I didn`t surf today as the weather was unsettled , rain one minute and cloudy offshore the next. Hoping for better tomorrow.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Monday, February 11, 2008
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Friday, February 8, 2008
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Monday, February 4, 2008
Local conditions were nothing like this picture but at least it wasn`t raining. H.B. was jumbled with a ripping side current but the short period swell at Blackies looked promising. By the time I broke from work the wind was on it but chances for surf tomorrow look good!
Sunday, February 3, 2008
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Friday, February 1, 2008
Had a serious weeks work to get done, and managed to handle it with jobs done on time and profitable . I almost got to surf yesterday but by the time I got my gear together the wind was on it. Today I only got a quick look at the river from PCH on my way to CDM. I`m hoping to join the weekend crowd tomorrow but the conditions may not be good.