Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Wednesday windswell

Surf wasn`t much but much better then nothing at all. Water was warm, I think I can hang up the fullsuit till November

Monday, May 28, 2012

Memorial Day

Surf was pretty weak this morning but at least there was a little to ride, allowing us grown adults to get in the water and play like children.
 God bless America and thanks to all who have died for our freedoms !

Saturday, May 19, 2012

early bird

textured ,dumpy windswell with a side order of backwash , I did my best to enjoy what was out there

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Big Wednesday       Go here to view a nice background piece about the movie Big Wednesday on the Goleta Surf site-

Saturday, May 12, 2012

It didn`t look like much from the parking lot but went anyway to find it surprisingly fun . Light crowd +  dropping tide + Andreini quad = happy boy.

Friday, May 11, 2012


Surfed for the first time in weeks. I ignored doctors orders and just went. Great day and felt great.

Saturday, May 5, 2012

Recently ,years of sun damage caused some skin cancer to show its nasty self and my dermatologist removed a piece of my lower eyelid, grafting on a patch of skin from behind my ear to cover the cancerous void. It was a medical procedure for which I am grateful ,yet hoping to never repeat. Surfing was declared off limits during recovery as he had dubious feelings regarding the local water quality also stating that he didn`t want me to pop a stitch. Two weeks out of the water so far and he`s saying two more to go, but things are healing nicely, the wound seems watertight, and now we just need some swell with nice conditions.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

lifted from the Surfmatters blog