Surf was pretty weak this morning but at least there was a little to ride, allowing us grown adults to get in the water and play like children.
God bless America and thanks to all who have died for our freedoms !
Recently ,years of sun damage caused some skin cancer to show its nasty self and my dermatologist removed a piece of my lower eyelid, grafting on a patch of skin from behind my ear to cover the cancerous void. It was a medical procedure for which I am grateful ,yet hoping to never repeat. Surfing was declared off limits during recovery as he had dubious feelings regarding the local water quality also stating that he didn`t want me to pop a stitch. Two weeks out of the water so far and he`s saying two more to go, but things are healing nicely, the wound seems watertight, and now we just need some swell with nice conditions.