Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Teen Challenge-50 yrs

We`ve just returned from a great evening celebrating 50 years of Teen Challenge, the ministry started on the streets of New York by David Wilkerson. They have been saving lives and souls for half a century, truly a worthy and effective group. We heard some powerful testimonies from young people currently going through the program.
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Beautiful morning

Don`t you love this time of year? The sunrise was great and I enjoy the smell of salt air early. Surf was inconsistent but looked like fun. I had to work all day so didn`t get any

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Monday, September 29, 2008


Youtube has some of the coolest stuff if you have the time to look. Local surf was off today. Drama at sunrise with distant rain and lightning, the wind was offshore, west and south all in the same hour.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Palin on SNL

Gray morning

Another funky, foggy gray morning with wally SW swell and a fat tide coming in. I opted for pancakes and the Sunday paper. Maybe the surf will be better this afternoon
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Effective advertising?What is she selling? Do we care?

Saturday, September 27, 2008

One vote

The local surf today was foggy, hightide walls with a weekend crowd, chose not to participate.

Friday, September 26, 2008

low viz`slop

So foggy I couldn`t even see what was out there, paddled out to find semi choppy walls with side current. I lasted 1/2 hr before going back to work
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Thursday, September 25, 2008

go long

I pulled out the longboard and paddled out for the 1st time in a month.The broken ribs are still sore but I was pleased to paddle into some hightide chest-highs and pop right to my feet.( I`ll have to take it easy for awhile) Water felt great.
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Wednesday, September 24, 2008


This morning was foggy, funky, wally, backwashy,disorganized,frustrating....but still probably better than working all day
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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

one year blog-iversary

I`ve been at this blog thing for one year today, I`m not sure exactly why I put the time into it, my wife and kids don`t get it , and not many people look at it. Yet, I enjoy creating something each day, I enjoy carrying my cameras around ,hoping to get a good shot.I enjoy searching for material to post ,surf related things of interest, or social commentary. I imagine the process is good for my brain and it is just fun.( it sure beats doing crossword puzzles) Thanks for checking in.
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Sunday, September 21, 2008


This morning I went down to Capistrano to work on a Habitat for Humanity project. I always enjoy it. This time there wasn`t enough work for the people who showed up, but the weather was great and it was nice to spend time with folks from church. ( I checked the surf on the way down and it looked pretty good)

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Friday, September 19, 2008

Friday dawn

Went down early to look, the wind was already starting to stir and the waves were walled. Beautiful sunrise and cool salt air. I went off to a full days work . I think I`ve got 2 more weeks till my ribs heal enough to surf.
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Thursday, September 18, 2008

afternoon heats

Checked the surf at lunch. The swell was fighting a really high tide but it still looked fun. Warm sunny day!
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Wednesday, September 17, 2008


Nice conditions for a contest today. I`d like to sign up in the senior division just to get this place with only 3-4 guys in the water.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

early surf photography

I found this shot online. Its reportedly George Greenough shooting surf films in the 60`s. You can bet that thing is heavy, expensive, and not waterproof.Can you imagine sitting in the channel on a canvas mat with that thing on your shoulder? The pioneers of surf photography blazed a rough trail.
Local surf was off today. Cold (60?) water, early winds and low tide made for tough going this morning
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Saturday, September 13, 2008

freight trains

The low tide had things pretty walled this morning and there were plenty of Saturday morning surfers trying to make the best of it.Every now and then a clean section rolled through.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Friday morning

The SW swell is dropping but it looked fun. Still wally with current but there is some windswell coming in that makes for some good sections. Evidently the water temp is still ok also.
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Thursday, September 11, 2008

7 years later....

I remember being in my kitchen and making coffee, while watching the morning news. Reports of a plane hitting the World Trade Center were being covered. I stood in disbelief as the TV showed plane #2 plunge into the side of the skyscaper. I couldn`t believe what I`d seen. Kamikaze jihadists attacking US soil.The horrible clash of cultures was on.
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Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Find "X"

The SW swell is still rolling in but kind of walled and shapeless lately. I`m still watching from the rocks for a few more weeks till my ribs heal.

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Sunday, September 7, 2008

Sunday sunset

Hardly anyone out at Lowers!
I took Molly back down to SDSU this morning. We went to the Chargers game and then back to her dorm to troubleshoot the printer/laptop,etc. and dinner @ Chipotles. It`s kind of heartbreaking to leave her there as her head`s not in it, she`s uncertain about her decisions, and hasn`t applied herself yet. I asked her to just give it a chance and try her best. No tears this time.My prayer is that she just find her purpose and be happy pursuing it. Parenthood is no piece of cake: yet it`s wonderful, every joy and every pain as well.
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Friday, September 5, 2008

almost gone...

The recent swell is dying down and west winds messed things up early. West wind on SE swell cleaned up the lefts in a few spots

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Thursday, September 4, 2008

still rolling

Lots of walls, lots of current, and a few nice moments here and there. The wind messed it up late morning

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