Wednesday, April 29, 2009

windswell

The surf has been pretty weak the last few days, windswell and bumpy, a short section here and there if you`re patient and lucky 
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Recommended reading

I really enjoyed this book. Surfing is the major thread followed as the author explores not only legendary surf spots, but the mental and physiological effects induced by the act of wave-riding. Some of it goes deep and is beyond my pay-grade, tough to understand all of it , but I felt it was time well spent as I finished it. Fascinating subject matter laid out by a talented author. 
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36 hours in Kauai

Spent Sunday night and all day Monday in Kalapaki , Kauai on the south side. No surf , but warm water and relaxing on the beach with my wife. 
 
 
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Saturday, April 25, 2009

Morning drive


West winds early had most spots pretty junky, there were a few sheltered spots to be found. I`m working today so no surf for me.

Friday, April 24, 2009

wasted

The wind was up early this morning, putting a funky crumble on the walled south that`s in.Another day to get some work done. I`m hoping to salvage a surf tomorrow before this swell wastes away. 
 
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Thursday, April 23, 2009

all work,no play

I started early and worked all day, didn`t even get a look at the surf till late. The tide was out and the wind was up and didn`t get out at all. 
 
 
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Wednesday, April 22, 2009

baby teeth

Luke Allee, junior high schooler, likes working with wood in the garage. I watched him cut and foil these little glass-on sidebites from a sheet of thin marine ply in about an hour. The kid`s got talent.
 
 
 
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Tuesday, April 21, 2009

still hot

Nineties today and weak swell. that one-wave set rolled through every 15-20 minutes. 56 degree water felt good.
 
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Monday, April 20, 2009

heat wave

Too hot all day! Still high 80`s at the end of the day.No one out ,so you know it wasn`t very good,but I wanted to cool off. That cold water on me felt as good as a cold beer is gonna feel in me .  
 
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hot

Hot today, already pushing 70 at the beach early. Too bad there`s no surf to go with the summer weather. High-tide and dribbly with not much energy expected
 
 
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Sunday, April 19, 2009

Lazy Sunday

Not much(none) surf this weekend, but it sure feels like summer, every parking spot in town will fill early and my daughters and their friends will spend most of the day on the sand. I`m planning on listening to music while reading the travel section, maybe I`ll work in the yard (maybe not) 
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Saturday, April 18, 2009

Costa Mesa 5K

Didn`t check the surf yet today as we were running in the Costa Mesa 5K to help support our local schools.It was a nice warm morning and hundreds turned out to run a cross-country three miler.I felt good early on but started to run out of gas near the end.There was an older guy with an artificial leg I`d been chasing but he just nipped me at the finish line. 
 
 
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Thursday, April 16, 2009



go here for higher quality-http://www.billabong.com/au/blog-post/103/donavon-and-ben-stillar-ruling-their-local-beach

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

WNW wind howling...

The wind was blowing all night and made a mess of most spots, but there were pockets of very good surf. Windchill was brutal and I was dry on the beach. Had to be very cold in the water.
 
 
 
 
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Monday, April 13, 2009

Thought this was funny,lifted from Headhighglassy

Dear HeadHighGlassy,
I like looking at pictures of other peoples' surfboards on the Internet. My girlfriend doesn't approve, claiming that we have plenty of surfboards to look at right here in our apartment. How do I tell her that my looking at other surfboards doesn't at all detract from the ones available at home?
Your e-friend,
Primo

Hi Primo,
Healthy relationships are built on communication. Clearly, your relationship is not healthy, so I suggest waiting until your girlfriend is in the shower until you pursue your hobby.
HHG
ps--Never forsake the 'clear history' feature on your browser.

second south

April isn`t half over and we`ve had 2 south swells so far. It was good today after the negative tide early.I surfed after lunch till hightide backwash became a problem. 
 
 
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Sunday, April 12, 2009

Easter morning

Beautiful sunrise this Easter Sunday, it was nice to see lots of people out enjoying the precious gift that is every new day.

Friday, April 10, 2009

lunch time

The rain didn`t fall and the wind never blew as expected,the ocean looked smooth from up on the hill,so I bailed out of work to surf an hour at lunch. Nothing great but better than nothing
 
 
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Good Friday


 
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Thursday, April 9, 2009

spring conditions

Tried to surf today, stood and watched a long time but it wasn`t happening. Went back to work dry. 
 
 
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