Friday, July 31, 2009

not much

The surf was pretty feeble today but I went out anyway, the water`s in the 70`s, the sun is shining and I had the time. When most of the worlds population struggles to survive at the subsistence level, I have to count myself blessed to live in America and surf under a summer sky

 
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Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Monday, July 27, 2009

state park

74 degree water and 80 degree air on the beach, our swell is dropping but there was still the occaisional head-high set. Beautiful day, I`m grateful.

 
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Sunday, July 26, 2009

managable

Our big South is backing off a bit on the higher tide today,managable walls, safe enough for the more "mature" surfer 
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Saturday, July 25, 2009

US Open

Herbie Fletcher ran to the nose and rode this one all the way in and through the pier to the other side
 
 
 
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Friday, July 24, 2009

todays photo album

Wedge

matches the hype

the new swell is all it was hyped up to be, here are just a few from this morning 
 
 
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Thursday, July 23, 2009

it`s starting..

Our much hyped SW swell has started to build. We`ll see how accurate the predictions are tomorrow morning. I`m afraid most places will be a walled-up closeouts but I`m hoping to find some ridable waves somewhere 
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Tuesday, July 21, 2009

 
 
Not nearly the quality of surf I enjoyed yesterday, but still fun. Inconsistent sets were ok but the lull was long
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Monday, July 20, 2009

SPF 30

Foggy morning, light crowd, shoulder high and glassy "see through to the bottom" SW swell. The day is off to a good start 
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Sunday, July 19, 2009

This is the day the Lord has made....

 
Ever notice how a few graceful lines scribed across a thigh-high glassy face provides more than enough joy to carry you through the day
 
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Friday, July 17, 2009

2 extremes

In the foreground-hood,booties and enough SPF to suit a mime, trunking it in the rear. I felt my 2mil springer was just right 
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Thursday, July 16, 2009

pretty day

Sunny at dawn , warm air, no winds at all, but absolutely no surf either.It was a good day to just stay at work but I`m hoping to get wet tomorrow
 
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Wednesday, July 15, 2009

weak,wimpy

I drove up and down looking for surf this morning but there was nothing going on and the dropping tide was making it worse. Came home dry and went to work 
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Tuesday, July 14, 2009

As long as we`re walking down the country road, check this one....

Willie Nelson took this one to #1 but Townes wrote it

No surf lately, posting this because video record of this guy is scarce, he was a gifted songwriter whose pain took him out way too early

Sunday, July 12, 2009

early services

I went to the early service at The Church of Perpetual Motion, warm water ,the rising sun warm on my back and some dumpy short-period swell with steep drops and short rides. Thanks Lord for a good start to the day. 
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Friday, July 10, 2009

TS Blanca

The forecast for the last few days underestimated the potential of Blanca. She has sent some pretty decent surf (and warm water) to our area. 
 
 
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Wednesday, July 8, 2009

another fine day

I blew off another afternoon work schedule and went south again. There were too many guys out at Lowers so chose to ride the longboard with the other old guys. 
 
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Monday, July 6, 2009

run south

Blew off the afternoon schedule and headed south to enjoy the warm day and surf. Lot`s of company in the water but it was fun, grateful to be able to enjoy So Cal at it`s finest. 
 
 
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Monday after

Still some swell left from yesterday, crowds are still here too! The heat inland has many people on the beach this Monday 
 
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Saturday, July 4, 2009

more 4th of July

And now some history. A good read
Have you ever wondered what happened to the 56 men
who signed the Declaration of Independence?

Five signers were captured by the British as traitors,
and tortured before they died.

Twelve had their homes ransacked and burned.
Two lost their sons serving in the Revolutionary Army;
another had two sons captured.

Nine of the 56 fought and died from wounds or
hardships of the Revolutionary War.

They signed and they pledged their lives, their fortunes,
and their sacred honor.

What kind of men were they?

Twenty-four were lawyers and jurists.
Eleven were merchants,
nine were farmers and large plantation owners;
men of means, well educated,
but they signed the Declaration of Independence
knowing full well that the penalty would be death if
they were captured.
Carter Braxton of Virginia, a wealthy planter and
trader, saw his ships swept from the seas by the
British Navy. He sold his home and properties to
pay his debts, and died in rags.

Thomas McKeam was so hounded by the British
that he was forced to move his family almost constantly.
He served in the Congress without pay, and his family
was kept in hiding. His possessions were taken from him,
and poverty was his reward.

Vandals or soldiers looted the properties of Dillery, Hall, Clymer,
Walton, Gwinnett, Heyward, Ruttledge, and Middleton.

At the battle of Yorktown, Thomas Nelson, Jr., noted that
the British General Cornwallis had taken over the Nelson
home for his headquarters. He quietly urged General
George Washington to open fire. The home was destroyed,
and Nelson died bankrupt.

Francis Lewis had his home and properties destroyed.
The enemy jailed his wife, and she died within a few months.

John Hart was driven from his wife's bedside as she was dying.
Their 13 children fled for their lives. His fields and his gristmill
were laid to waste. For more than a year he lived in forests
and caves, returning home to find his wife dead and his
children vanished.
So, take a few minutes while enjoying your 4th of July holiday and
silently thank these patriots. It's not much to ask for the price they paid.

Remember: Freedom is Never Free!

Saturday, July 4th,2009

Happy Birthday America! I was down at the beach early, didn`t take a board because I knew there wasn`t a parking space left within a mile of the beach and we still have only knee-high dribble rolling in. Cars were lined up in all directions to get into the state beach, every parking lot was full, and the police were gearing up for a busy day on the peninsula.

 
 
 
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