Sunday, August 31, 2008

Summer`s winding down...

It was nice to be back in town. Labor day weekend has the town all full,visitors optimistically circling the blocks in hope of some parking space miracle. It is a beautiful summer morning with a series of small swells combining to push in the random fun section.

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Off to college...

Spent the last 2 days moving into the freshman dorms at SDSU. An exciting campus with lots of great things going on, I never tried anything harder than OCC so I`m excited to see my daughter have the opportunity.She texted us tonight and said she`s burned out after 12 years of school and wants to come home. Tough decisions ahead. 
 
 
 
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Thursday, August 28, 2008

SE pulse

I`m working 2 jobs on the peninsula right now (but my injuries have me out of the water for weeks)I walked down the walk to see a fun spot showing some signs of life. It wasn`t enough energy to work right but it had it`s fun moments
 
 
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Wednesday, August 27, 2008

48 hrs of percodan

I`ve spent the last 2 days on painkillers after breaking 4 ribs on Monday( work related) I`m not sure how long till I can surf again but at least I can still go look everyday.

 
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Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Out for the season?

Work injury yesterday. I surfed off the back of my truck onto the pile of broken concrete I`d just dumped- resulting in 4 broken ribs. They say to take it easy for a long time and that the ribs may take 4 months to heal. They couldn`t say how long I`d be out of the water but I may miss my favorite time of year (start of school thru Oct) 
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Sunday, August 24, 2008

sunday

 
I surfed at the same place this morning, similiar to yesterday, with not many guys out.(Water felt cooler and I was wishing I had more than a 2mm springer) Proper wave selection was rewarded as usual and I found myself saying "thanks Lord" after each wave.
 
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Saturday, August 23, 2008

city beach

Weekend crowds and walled conditions at low tide sent me off to stretch of beach I usually just sail past. Light crowd and the occasional left section made for more fun than I expected,
 
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Friday, August 22, 2008

a little pulse


The 1-2 ft and poor at daybreak turned into inconsistent fun with the tide push. Glassy and grey till about 11am with a manageable crowd. It was fun, better then nothing,for sure.
 
 
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Thursday, August 21, 2008

Summer doldrums

I had time to surf today but there just wasn`t much going on. Days like this make you think about heading out to distant shores. Pulled a few shots from the e-scrapbook to remind me of a place I`d like to see again

 
 
 
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Wednesday, August 20, 2008

gray, dribbly.....

I had lots of time to surf today but it just wasn`t that good. Gray and windy at 9am. Maybe tomorrow will be better!

 
 
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Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Off day....

Not much action out there today. I looked early and mid-morning and it was dismal both times.Pretty day at the beach but I was best served by staying at work.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Sunday services

The swell is still pretty walled but it was a warm morning, smooth and glassy, so out I went. The sets were walled but the in-betweens had some fun sections.

 
 
 
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Saturday, August 16, 2008

Early streets....

I really enjoy being out early and checking the surf, the cool air, nice sunrises,etc. But there is also a sad world that you can`t ignore. I see the homeless, the drunks, hungover souls leaving strange apartments, gutters littered with beer bottles. It`s all kind of sad sometimes, but we take the good with the bad.I still thank God for all of it and enjoy my early morning hours.

 
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Thursday, August 14, 2008

Early Uppers

Nice morning at Uppers. The swell angle was off but it was still worth the trip.
 
 
 
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Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Different reality

While I spend my time working in the harbor area and trying to catch a few waves when time allows, there are young Americans a world away fighting for our freedoms.I came across this amazing photo of a helicopter med-evac flight loading wounded soldiers in Afghanistan. A young pilot from the Pennsylvania Natl. Guard set the tail of his aircraft down on the roof of a shack on an Afghani mountaintop while others loaded the wounded.It`s a far different reality from my easy life.

Monday, August 11, 2008

Donde Hernan?

No sign of the tropical hurricane swell they predicted, but there was a nice little combo/windswell that made for some fun ones mid-morning.

 
 
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Saturday, August 9, 2008

Christian Surfers Outreach

This morning I was blessed to spend the day at the beach with CSO, teaching local kids ,from the westside,how to surf.It`s a great program that meets the 2nd Sat of each month through the summer. They get a local pastor to give a short Bible message and then the kids hit the waves. It is a rewarding day for all involved.

Friday, August 8, 2008

birthday present

I turned 55 today and treated myself to a morning at Uppers. Not a lot of energy, but really nice anyway. Dawn stroll down the trail. clear warm water and smooth little peelers that were fun to ride. Only 12-13 guys out as of 8;30 when I left. Great start to the day!


 
 
 
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Thursday, August 7, 2008

Hobo dawn

The surf was a jumbled mess this morning but the sunrise was the reward for being up early. I wondered if the homeless guy at rivers edge was appreciating the beauty spread before him. Do our circumstances blur our perspective of God`s creation?


 
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Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Not...

It looked nothing like this today. Things were drained early, kind of walled, and I only surfed 1/2 hr. before heading back to work. It should be better tomorrow AM
 
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