Friday, October 31, 2008


There wasn`t supposed to be much surf today but it was actually pretty fun after the big high tide rolled through. The wind finally came up and ruffled it a bit in the afternoon.The water has warmed some and felt good. 
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Thursday, October 30, 2008

Sick of politics

I`m worn down by it all today. It seems half of the nation thinks the other half of the nation is stupid, cruel, misguided or worse, and vice-versa. There is so much
animosity and emotion flying around that it`s hard to take.
Truth is gravely wounded, barely recognizable because of the spin spewed out by both sides. No one has the time to research the infinite number of charges thrown by both sides. Anyone who claims to know what is really going on in the country should have his head examined.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

On the water

Not much surf today , stayed working most of the day, but was invited to go sailing this afternoon. Just enough breeze to push us up-coast, beer,bratwurst, and a nice sunset.

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008

More Pt. Mugu

I lifted this shot from the Rincon surf blog, he was there covering the contest and his pics are always great. 100 surfers showed to get a look at this hard to access break. The Navy has set a date for the next event in August of 2009

Monday, October 27, 2008


smaller and foggy

I`m still beat from the last few days. There was some surf today but I let it go, better off staying at work till the next swell.
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Sunday, October 26, 2008

day of rest

Foggy this morning, but we still have some swell. I chose to pass on surf this morning, tired from the past few days and some cuts on my feet from Malibu yesterday. I`m grateful for the surf I`ve had this week, I`m happy to rest and replay some of the waves in my head.
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Saturday, October 25, 2008

Road trip

In the car before sunrise to drive to Ventura Co., surfr contest on Pt Mugu Naval Base.We watched some of that before heading out to surf ourselves, ending up at Malibu with the biggest crowd I`ve ever surfed in.. It was a beautiful, warm day and the waves were good so we managed to have fun anyway.

Friday, October 24, 2008


The surf wasn`t as good as yesterday,but when it stays glassy all day you have to take advantage. Very walled most of the time, barrel rides with no exits, but lots of fun trying
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McPhee goes green

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Thursday, October 23, 2008

color saturation

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autumn sunset

Just got home from a great evening surf, got more than my share and surfed well. I almost skipped to the car like a little kid. God is good! 
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Wednesday, October 22, 2008

fog & fun

I paddled out through thick fog to see what the surf was like. I bumped into a longtime friend and we shared some waves for an hour,closeouts mainly but enough corners to keep it interesting.The water felt great. As I left the fog was lifting and I think it`s going offshore later. It might be worth checking after the high tide  
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Tuesday, October 21, 2008

couldn`t see it

I know there was some ok SW swell in the water today, I walked right to the waters edge but just couldn`t see it. I asked a few guys who said it was ok, "kinda walled", but the cell phone rang and I was needed elsewhere. Tomorrow with offshores may be a better time.
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Monday, October 20, 2008


Checked the surf early, close period windswell was dominant. It looked fun but I have a lot of work today so I`ll just keep my head down. If the wind doesn`t blow I`ll go later
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Sunday, October 19, 2008

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day of rest...

Cool and cloudy this morning. The negative low tide and early west wind had conditions looking less than appealing. Going to church and then home to take it easy, a peaceful day of rest
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Saturday, October 18, 2008

blessing of the waves

Father Matt Munoz of St. Irenaeus Catholic Church carries his surfboard which bears an image of the Virgin Mary. "I`m not Jesus he says. I need a surfboard to walk on the water"
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Friday, October 17, 2008

cool off

Surfed after work today. The swell has dropped and it wasn`t as smooth as it has been, but the water felt great after a hot day working.
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Thursday, October 16, 2008

evening glass

It`s another beautiful afternoon, low tide glass. I did`nt surf well, mostly closeouts and over the falls twice but it sure was pretty
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Wednesday, October 15, 2008

silver plated evening

an unexpected evening glass-off today.The tide was going to a negative low so there wasn`t much water over the sandbars making for fast hollow sections 
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