Wednesday, August 31, 2011

8/31 54-56

glassy-overcast-hightide-backwashy-crowded-building swell-I had to work

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Tuesday, August 30, 2011


Trying to figure out the GoPro, range is pretty close and water spots on the lens are a problem , but I`m having fun learning. The surf was better than expected this morning and the crowd was light now that some of the schools are back in.

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Sunday, August 28, 2011

Sunday-late August

Another pretty morning, going to get hot today, semi walled south but still had more fun than I deserve

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Saturday, August 27, 2011

not great.... but great

Daybreak at the river didn`t look like much ,a weak jumble of swells from all over the map, but I`d told myself I was surfing "no matter what". Once out there I was glad I`d come, the surf wasn`t much but the water was warm, the hazy sunrise was pretty and every so often a decent shoulder to ride.
One shoulder high backhander rolled my way and I was pleased to enjoy its energy as it kept popping up all silvery in front of me as I squinted into the rising sun. I heard myself say Thanks Lord as I turned out the back.The wave wasn`t much but it was a nice gift I`m glad I was there to receive.
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Thursday, August 25, 2011

summer evening cooldown

Nice cool evening, too much wind to surf but nice for watching the sun go down.

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summer heat

Clear and warm from early on, too bad the surf`s so weak. I`ll body surf this evening just to get wet.
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Tuesday, August 23, 2011

all work,no play

Surf`s been sucky lately and I`ve got a backyard firepit/ BBQ/ patio deal to finish before Labor Day. When the swell picks up I`ll find a way to squeeze it in.
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Friday, August 19, 2011

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Wed 8/17

I couldn`t get away from responsibilities this morning to surf local. Went to Uppers in the afternoon., not as good as Newp this AM

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Sunday 8/14

Didn`t go out this morning (low tide walls), felt good to just walk the beach and relax. Thank you Lord for weekends.
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Friday, August 12, 2011

Friday cell phone-foto`s

1/2 day at work with a surf on the way home. Nice end to the week . I`m experiencing a heightened sense of how lucky we are to live in So cal

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Thursday, August 11, 2011


Debbie and the girls nailed it on gift selection this year, looking forward to using this .
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Monday, August 8, 2011

58 today

birthday gift to myself, dawn patrol to uppers.light crowd, clean surf, a few fun headhighs all to myself.Thanks Lord, for the good start to another year.

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Sunday, August 7, 2011

Derek Hynd finless drifting


surfed south county this morning, surf wasn`t great but the change of scene was nice.
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Saturday, August 6, 2011


Hit the S.E. spot at dawn, it wasn`t working like it can but I still like to get out here whenever its got waves.
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