8/31 54-56

glassy-overcast-hightide-backwashy-crowded-building swell-I had to work

gopro

Trying to figure out the GoPro, range is pretty close and water spots on the lens are a problem , but I`m having fun learning. The surf was better than expected this morning and the crowd was light now that some of the schools are back in.

Sunday-late August

Another pretty morning, going to get hot today, semi walled south but still had more fun than I deserve

not great.... but great

Daybreak at the river didn`t look like much ,a weak jumble of swells from all over the map, but I`d told myself I was surfing "no matter what". Once out there I was glad I`d come, the surf wasn`t much but the water was warm, the hazy sunrise was pretty and every so often a decent shoulder to ride.
One shoulder high backhander rolled my way and I was pleased to enjoy its energy as it kept popping up all silvery in front of me as I squinted into the rising sun. I heard myself say Thanks Lord as I turned out the back.The wave wasn`t much but it was a nice gift I`m glad I was there to receive.

summer evening cooldown

Nice cool evening, too much wind to surf but nice for watching the sun go down.

summer heat

Clear and warm from early on, too bad the surf`s so weak. I`ll body surf this evening just to get wet.

all work,no play

Surf`s been sucky lately and I`ve got a backyard firepit/ BBQ/ patio deal to finish before Labor Day. When the swell picks up I`ll find a way to squeeze it in.

Start the weekend...

Wed 8/17

I couldn`t get away from responsibilities this morning to surf local. Went to Uppers in the afternoon., not as good as Newp this AM

Monday evening

new state campground

Sunday 8/14

Didn`t go out this morning (low tide walls), felt good to just walk the beach and relax. Thank you Lord for weekends.

blacks beach-saturday morning

Friday cell phone-foto`s

1/2 day at work with a surf on the way home. Nice end to the week . I`m experiencing a heightened sense of how lucky we are to live in So cal

presents

Debbie and the girls nailed it on gift selection this year, looking forward to using this .

58 today

birthday gift to myself, dawn patrol to uppers.light crowd, clean surf, a few fun headhighs all to myself.Thanks Lord, for the good start to another year.

Derek Hynd finless drifting

Sunday

surfed south county this morning, surf wasn`t great but the change of scene was nice.

Sat.8/6

Hit the S.E. spot at dawn, it wasn`t working like it can but I still like to get out here whenever its got waves.