Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Happy Halloween

Goodbye October! Man, that went fast. 55 days till Christmas. I came home from work to another of my wife`s halloween pumpkins on the porch, she does a great job with them.
I think there was a little surf up at H.B. today but I didn`t go look. I was at Blackies before dawn and saw 3-4 guys out surfing by the pier lights and that looked kinda fun. It was small but clean and they were taking off on each other in the dark.
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Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Another off-day


If we had good surf everyday we just wouldn`t appreciate it as much. I still went down to look at dawn but just drank my coffee and headed to work.There are rumors of Santa ana`s again by friday, hopefully a little swell to go with them.Posted by Picasa

Monday, October 29, 2007

Sunday, October 28, 2007

Off-day

I went down early and watched an amazing sunrise from the pier parking lot. The surf was weak and the tide was coming way up , so it was a good day to just put my head down and get some work done. The conditions last week had me a bit distracted and the jobsite demands my attention.
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Sunday morning

I guess we`re all down here looking for something, and there is sometning good for all of us. I come down every morning to check the surf, but many days the surf is my secondary concern. The Bible says Creation is proof of our Creator and I enjoy coming to see each new day begin here. The sunrise each morning and the way the light plays on the clouds, the ocean surface, the cool of the dawn. All of these things are gifts to us, and if somehow God moves the oceans to create waves that I can ride on, I`ll take that gift too!
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Saturday, October 27, 2007

Halloween expression session

It is a day for costume surfing with the Blackies bunch today and they were having fun despite the weak surf. I couldn`t bring myself to go out today, after a week of warm golden, glassy waves, it didn`t seem worth the effort. Last night I saw the red glow of the fires burning up Saddleback, so the smoke and ash are still with us.




Friday, October 26, 2007

" One man`s trash...."



I`m currently remodeling a backyard in Newport and noticed the young wife hauling out trash and trying to straighten up some clutter. As I went out to the truck I noticed she`d just thrown 3 years of her husbands" Surfers Journal" in the can. I scooped them out for one more reading and then will probably trash them too. I subscribe to Surfer but lately find it a little too busy, too A.D.D for my tastes . Surfers Journal is pricey but what a joy to look at.
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Thursday, October 25, 2007

Autumn Afternoon

I left the jobsite about 1:30 and headed down to check the surf. The air was warm and still, and the sea surface was sheet glass. We had an extreme low tide so things were kind of walled , but there were good sections to be had. I had a nice stretch of beach break all to myself and nailed a few nice sets. Rode the Bonzer today. I`m still trying to figure it out but today I like it. For fast ,down-the-line surfing it works.
Afternoons like this are rare, and make nice memories when we return to our normal wind-blown afternoons. October is my favorite month because of days like these.


Posted by Picasa Another red dawn thanks to the fires.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Lunch at Taco Bell Reef

Red dawn at the Cliffs


It`s been a rare day with all this smoke in the air , as parts of So cal still burn. There is an amber quality to the light and the air is so still. I managed to slip away from the jobsite late morning and found great conditions on the northside of H.B. pier. The copper colored light on glassy waves looked really cool. The crowd was managable. I have to consider myself blessed to be able to slip away and play at lunch.

Monday, October 22, 2007

Oktoberfest - roll out the barrel


I went down to surf at lunch and stood on the rocks at 48th to snap some shots. In the span of 5 minutes I got the shots below before getting in the water myself. Most of the sets were beautiful closeouts so I walked down to 36th where it was smaller but a little more makeable.






Sunday, October 21, 2007

Malibu`s burning 10-21

Reaping the whirlwind.......
October always brings warm days and Santa Ana winds, ..... and often brushfires. The Malibu Colony is burning right now, Malibu Presbyterian Church was one of the first losses and many homes are threatened. Despite the threat ashore, I`m betting the Point is crowded with surfers enjoying what the wind does to the combo swell.



56th street had its moments late this morning

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Saturday, October 20, 2007

Home from Gulfport







I`m finally back home from Mississippi and looking forward to my own bed tonight. The experiences of the past week keep rolling through my head and I`d best write some of it down before I lose it. But I`m kinda tired right now......
The work we did this week may not have made a big difference in light of how much remains to be done, but it made a huge difference in the life of Mamie Ramsey and her family.This week had a huge impact on my life as well.
We stood on the porch of her old house speaking to her grandson, Tyree, and he said that his grandmother is too tough to let us see her emotion but that she tears up when we leave at the end of the day. As we were leaving he said " Most people just talk the talk, but what you`re doing , this is church"
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More Katrina relief 10-20-07


A diverse group of people from So.Cal, 2 from Seattle and 2 from Boston shared a house and amazing experiences in Gulfport this week. We were part of Presbyterian Disaster Assistance and worked in the Gulfport area.

I was part of a team that spent the week repairing an 85 yr. old house for an 85 yr old woman who had spent her whole life there. She was in the house as Katrina howled and the floodwaters crept across her old plank floors. She stayed through the storm but the house was unlivable and she was relocated the past 2 years .

We grew very close to her this week and it was hard to say goodbye. We didn`t finish her house but the next group should, and then she`ll be back in.

Her house is just one in an area of much damage,but God has taken that one house and worked miracles of faith, co-operation, and love for all the neighborhood to see, and I was blessed to be a small part of it!

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Road to New Orleans

This is what sunset over Lake Ponchatrain looked like last night. It rained on the way in but soon cleared. The shot below is what the new bridge construction looks like. The existing bridge was submerged during Katrina.

Monday, October 15, 2007

mississippi

That`s a FEMA trailer out back

I`m in Gulfport this week helping with Katrina relief. We`ve got a group of 14 helping repair damaged homes in the gulfcoast area.There has been a lot of progress in the commercial areas. but there are still damaged homes all around.FEMA trailers are visible behind many damaged homes. In many cases the trailers are better than the house ever was. This is a poor area

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Friday, October 12, 2007

Glacier Surfing Alaska

Short stack at the Shack

If you have the time tomorrow this event would be wothwhile. Surfboard and shapers expo at the Del Mar fairgrounds. It may rain tomorrow anyway, making it hard to play outside. The dawns early light showed the swell was not there. I chose a short stack instead, and read the paper before heading to work. The Shack is a great little piece of surf culture itself, owned by a surfing family and son, Timmy Turner is a good surfer and great filmmaker.

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Thursday, October 11, 2007

Rincon report

This report was lifted from today`s Rincon surf blog:

After Months of Anticipation, First Real Swell Arrives at the PointA good friend just called to tell me that he was in the water from 1:00 until 5:00. and stated further, "It just kept getting bigger and bigger!" He said that the sets were a solid 2 - 3 feet overhead, and that the waves were very juicy...I myself took a chance and drove down to the point this morning, hoping to catch the swell forerunners after the tide drop, and this strategy seemed to work pretty well. I arrived just after 9:30 am and had the area between the top of the cove and the rivermouth pretty much all to myself. While it was flat between the sets, about every 15 minutes or so a solid 3-wave set would roll through, some as big a shoulder- to head-high. I surfed until I had to leave for work (1:00 pm), and for me it was one of the most memorable opening-day sessions I've ever had. It was so hard to leave! I didn't bring my camera as I am thoroughly surf-deprived, and will need to get at least a few sessions in before I get behind the lens... Unfortunately (for me) I won't have another opportunity for a couple of days as me surfing will be pre-empted by work-related commitments...
After Months of Anticipation, First Real Swell Arrives at the PointA good friend just called to tell me that he was in the water from 1:00 until 5:00. and stated further, "It just kept getting bigger and bigger!" He said that the sets were a solid 2 - 3 feet overhead, and that the waves were very juicy...I myself took a chance and drove down to the point this morning, hoping to catch the swell forerunners after the tide drop, and this strategy seemed to work pretty well. I arrived just after 9:30 am and had the area between the top of the cove and the rivermouth pretty much all to myself. While it was flat between the sets, about every 15 minutes or so a solid 3-wave set would roll through, some as big a shoulder- to head-high. I surfed until I had to leave for work (1:00 pm), and for me it was one of the most memorable opening-day sessions I've ever had. It was so hard to leave! I didn't bring my camera as I am thoroughly surf-deprived, and will need to get at least a few sessions in before I get behind the lens... Unfortunately (for me) I won't have another opportunity for a couple of days as me surfing will be pre-empted by work-related commitments...
Exercise hour at the senior center


I headed to the H.B. cliffs early and shot this long exposure of the west swell rolling in ' I got the job going and ended up back at RJ`s about 9 Moderate crowd, some current and nothing but rights. I caught a few and got back to work
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Wednesday, October 10, 2007

No waves 10-10

I looked at it early and was almost relieved to see no waves . I need to buckle down and get some serious work done. I`m putting up some shots from a Nicaragua trip last month. Good memories....



Posted by PicasaNicaragua `07