Monday, July 30, 2012

white whale

Recently the bottom of my 1994 Baltierra 7'11" let loose and peeled off from mid-section to tail fin, maybe it should have gone to the scrap heap ( it`s been buckled, dinged dozens of times and had the fins knocked off) but I decided to re-glass the bottom and surf it again. My fiberglass work with 7 oz. cloth and opaque glass job is  reminiscent of some Mexican panga`s I`ve been in, but she`s watertight, surfable and still fun.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Saturday, July 28, 2012


No surf today, watched some skimmers on shorebreak and then went home to yardwork

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

one summer day

Blew off work early, too nice a day to let pass.

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

don`t know where but I wanna go

Saturday, July 21, 2012

Sugar shack

Funky weak surf today, went for breakfast instead

Friday, July 20, 2012


Nice morning to just get out and ride whatever's there. This is the day we've got so make the most of it

Thursday, July 19, 2012


Our swell is gone

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Got in the water early for 1 1/2 hrs surf before work, crowded quickly and makeable sections hard to find but it was still nice and fun

Saturday, July 14, 2012

I`m looking forward to this film when it`s completed, it`s being shot on 16mm film and features the Turner Bros of HB, Mikala Jones and some talented young Indo surfers

Friday, July 13, 2012


Tropical swell and weather today, shape is still too walled but some decent shoulders can be had,  tropical clouds are cool,some light rain too

Thursday, July 12, 2012


S E swell from TS Daniel and Emelia rolled in, along with subtropical clouds and weather, it even rained this evening. Shape was off but at least there`s some push to it.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Suited up in the dark, paddled out at first light ,3-4 others spread around the sandbar, steep drops and short rides but a beautiful morning to be in the water.

Saturday, July 7, 2012

saturday morning

Low tide walls, gray and gloomy, but fun if you were in the right spot.

Tuesday, July 3, 2012


South wind funk got started early but I get some some exercise and a few fun waves before work.