Tuesday, March 30, 2010

high tide and soft

Surf was blown early today, I did surf yesterday. It wasn`t much but was good for the head. It was really soft, soft as a loaf of fresh Wonder bread, soft as that spot on a newborns head ( fontanelle), soft as Hugh Hefner without...well, you get the picture 
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Sunday, March 28, 2010

summer in spring

Today was warm and sunny early, but the Pacific is not pushing much our way this morning. 
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Friday, March 26, 2010

Update on Mike Marshall's Paddle Out

Surf Historian and Shaper, Mike "Red" Marshall
Sept. 18, 1942-Feb. 6, 2010
Here are the details for Mike's memorial, there will be a Paddle Out at 9am on Thursday, April 8, at Blackies (the surf spot, not the bar) in Newport Beach,
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Thursday, March 25, 2010

all work, no play

 Couldn,t get away today, it looked ok early but the wind blew fairly early
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Wednesday, March 24, 2010


My youngest was honored to receive awards from the Daughters of the American Revolution local chapter. I left work to be there and was proud to have her be the one senior selected from her school, and the 2nd place essay was an honor that also paid her $50.00.( When she hits me up for $ this weekend I`ll remind her that she has her own.)
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Tuesday, March 23, 2010


Dawn patrolled it today, shifty peaks, head high and light offshore, steep drops and short rides but lots of fun. I got out for work at 8am and it was getting crowded, I was glad I got mine early. 
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Monday, March 22, 2010

Friday, March 19, 2010

Friday 3/19

Early surf check was promising but the tide was pretty low, so I waited till later but the phone rang and called me away before I could escape to the sea. 
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Thursday, March 18, 2010

Punta de Bano

The surf wasn`t much this morning but did wonders for my mental health, scrawling a few spasmodic lines across the face of todays windswell did much to relieve the stress. 
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Wednesday, March 17, 2010


Gonna surf tomorrow no matter what, not much swell expected but it will be therapeutic, especially as it`s been warm and glassy lately. 
This board was a large part of my "advertising" tax deduction some years back
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Saturday, March 13, 2010


The surf wasn`t happening today so I just took a long beachwalk and pondered life`s mysteries.... how many people actually have 6 months income set aside in a federally-insured savings account? how much should I be saving for college now that I have a daughter 2 years into college and a high school senior school-shopping ?, how is my retirement portfolio(?)doing?All that thinking gave me a headache so I just enjoyed my sunrise walk at the beach. 
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Friday, March 12, 2010


sunny warm day with a soft,spongey swell.... and crowded like a weekend. Is there a holiday today I don`t know about? 
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Thursday, March 11, 2010


The Rincon classic has been cancelled 4 weekends in a row but looks like a go this weekend. It seems like a good value spending the $75.00 entry fee just to get a shot at the Queen with only a handful of guys in the water during your heat
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Wednesday, March 10, 2010

howling winds

blown out windswell, cold water , blowing sand, should get better tomorrow. 
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Sunday, March 7, 2010


The surf was weak and dribbly this morning, so I walked the beach with my coffee and took in the sights.  
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Wednesday, March 3, 2010

so. county still rolling

Fun to watch but bittersweet as my current jobsite is taking all my time. To stay on schedule and budget I`ve had to stay put and I haven`t been able to get in the water yet! Tomorrow....?
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Monday, March 1, 2010


Good surf near the jobsite, gonna bring my board tomorrow. 
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