Friday, July 30, 2010

wright forecast

My forecastor said not to expect much and he was right. Cold/cool water, glassy gutless windswell, but I went out anyway. Just needed to run some saltwater over my gills. 
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Thursday, July 29, 2010

Wednesday, July 28, 2010


Surf wasn`t much today, and I needed to work anyway, doing my small part to fuel the local economy. I lifted this surfart from the web, nice piece of work. 
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Tuesday, July 27, 2010


Still living on memories of this place from earlier this month. I`ve been too busy catching up at work, no surf for the past week 
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Monday, July 26, 2010

tarp surfing

I didn`t watch the whole thing but thought it was pretty clever, give it a couple of minutes max, it is entertaining.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

SW still rolling

The waves stayed good again today. I`m paying for last weeks surf trip by having to stay at work all this week. I may "crack it" tomorrow to get some before work. 
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Tuesday, July 20, 2010


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home sweet home

The surf here at home is pretty sweet today
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Monday, July 19, 2010

Sunday, July 18, 2010

final day

We got in 3 amazing hours before having to head to the airport and home. It hurt to leave these empties behind. 
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Saturday, July 17, 2010

Friday, July 16, 2010

Farts are always funny

It`s now 5 days in surf camp with 15 guys( the majority of them i`ve just met this week), surfing fills the mornings but that leaves a lot of unfilled time. It`s funny to watch the social dynamics of this group, conversations don`t go very deep and biological functions figure prominently.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Mex 7/14

Still small and inconsistant but getting better every day,Friday and Saturday should be steady headhigh groundswell

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

dawn boat ride

Great sunrise and warm morning,the smell of wood smoke wafting over the water, and hopes for a pulse in swell

Saturday, July 10, 2010

surf trip

Leaving Sunday morning for a week of surf. I can`t really afford it and a week away from work right now may not be the best business choice but I`m going anyway. Life is short and sometimes you just have to let yourself live. There`s a Mark Twain quote I like " Twenty years from now you will regret the things you didn`t do more than the things you did do" That`s not it exactly but you get the idea.

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

still swelling

Smooth this morning, sets are still walled but some ridable sections. I caught it early and went off to work.
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Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Monday, July 5, 2010

five of July

smooth early, still no parking and lots of holiday trash. I chose to avoid the big unridable closeouts in west Newport and chose the kinder , gentler mid-jetties. Not as much size and punch but more fun to ride. Nice morning.
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Sunday, July 4, 2010

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The swell is in but the south wind blows hard, every parking spot in town is filled, the line to get into HB state beach was long at dawn and every firering was taken. It looks like a good day to stay home and enjoy the neighborhood,God Bless America
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4th of July

(I lifted this shot from HBsurfshots awhile back, been saving it for today)I`m going down now to see if the new south swell is in. Happy Fourth of July and God Bless America!
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Saturday, July 3, 2010

Saturday 7/3

stiff south wind blowing again this morning, drank my coffee and walked away to go to work. Hoping for something glassy tomorrow. 
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Friday, July 2, 2010

more from the Haiti trip


Some pics of July 1 as a surprisingly fun, punchy combo swell rolled in. I had fun but also got pitched a few times
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Thursday, July 1, 2010

Blogger is giving me trouble posting my pics of todays nice combo swell at RJ`s so I`ll post this instead