Monday, October 29, 2012

Equipment failure

Time to gear up,the waterproof point n'shoots are all dead and the shutter on my Canon went out. I am down to the GoPro and IPhone

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Santa Ana`s to blow tomorrow, if they blow too hard they`re gonna blow our little west swell back out to sea.. Our weather and surf haven`t been too good lately so I`m looking forward to whatever Friday brings.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

alternate methods

I surfed this morning and had a good time, nice shape on the rising tide. This afternoon was hot and glassy and I decided to blow up the 4G and give it a go, instead of my board. Just the mat, some mismatched fins and trunks. More fun than I expected. I loved the perspective as I dropped down the pitching face, side slipping and grinning like a kid.

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

weak day

Been out surfing the last few days but weak swell and fat high tide has been making things pretty slow. Water still very warm.

Sunday, October 14, 2012


Dribbly swell but a glorious morning, I surfed down at the river and the waves were more fun than they looked from shore. Grateful again

Sunday, October 7, 2012

2012-10-07-sunrise service

Waves still rolling in , water still warm, I am grateful for  another beautiful day

Friday, October 5, 2012

I know what I said about commitment to work and all yesterday, and it`s all true. But I couldn`t help myself today, evidently I have a........ "problem"

Thursday, October 4, 2012


I really enjoy this time of year and the waves have been pretty good for the last few weeks, to the point of becoming a distraction.I`ve found surfing adversely affecting my work schedule and job performance, being self-employed allows a fair amount of flexibility but I need to tone it down a bit and pay more attention to my business. Fortunately the swell seems to be backing down and the weather/ winds have gotten fluky.

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

stellar afternoon

 The wind stayed down and the tide went out and it was a beautiful thing. I surfed in trunks with 70 ? degree water and high 70`s for air temp. Surfed till dinner, went home a happy man.