Thursday, September 29, 2011

Thursday combo


Swell from 3 directions, came together nicely for awhile. Wind crumbled it mid-morning and redtide made for the brownest water I `ve surfed in a long time.I`m glad I got a little surf time, regardless.
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Wednesday, September 28, 2011

9/28

Waiting on swell from Hilary, small combo looked fun but I had work to do.

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Friday, September 23, 2011

first Fall afternoon


Long day at work called for an afternoon therapy session
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Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Fall`s almost here


These are shots from an offshore event last Oct. Looking forward to some more of this. ( Fall starts on Friday 9/23 )

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summer`s gone

The last day of summer felt more like May gray or June gloom, I paddled out for awhile this afternoon to say goodbye to Summer, hoping the ledgy chop would give up a nice section or two. I got pitched a few times and chased some wobbly closeouts but the water felt nice and the exercise was good for the head.
Bring on Fall !!
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Saturday, September 17, 2011

late morning


Conditions early were kind of funky so I went to work instead. After a few hours at work my perspective changed and it didn`t seem so bad after all. Got in an hour of fun before lunch. The last Saturday of summer looked more like winter.
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Russell



 The local surf population turned out to memorialize Robert " Russell" Brown this morning,  a major figure in Newport surf history. He always made real clean boards and it seemed as tf everyone in town rode one. It`s sad to know he`s gone and his friends sent up many prayers for his family.

Thursday, September 15, 2011

looked fun


looked ok, high tide and backwash made me decide to keep working awhile, wind came up before I could get back to it.
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Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Wed morning

surf had some texture by the time the tide started to fill in but the water is warmer and there were some inconsistent sets, mostly walled but every now and then, a good one. High tide swamped it mid-morning
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Monday, September 12, 2011

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Sunday perspective 9/11


Blessed to be up and out early, another day of great beauty.Thanks Lord!

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Saturday, September 10, 2011

9/11/11

Transcript of President Bush's Prayer Service Remarks


National Day of Prayer and Remembrance for the

Victims Of the Terrorist Attacks on September 11, 2001



Washington National Cathedral

September 14, 2001







We are here in the middle hour of our grief. So many have suffered so great a loss, and today we express our nation's sorrow. We come before God to pray for the missing and the dead, and for those who loved them.



On Tuesday, our country was attacked with deliberate and massive cruelty. We have seen the images of fire and ashes and bent steel.



Now come the names, the list of casualties we are only beginning. They are the names of men and women who began their day at a desk or in an airport, busy with life. They are the names of people who faced death and in their last moments called home to say, be brave and I love you.



They are the names of passengers who defied their murderers and prevented the murder of others on the ground. They are the names of men and women who wore the uniform of the United States and died at their posts.



They are the names of rescuers -- the ones whom death found running up the stairs and into the fires to help others. We will read all these names. We will linger over them and learn their stories, and many Americans will weep.



To the children and parents and spouses and families and friends of the lost, we offer the deepest sympathy of the nation. And I assure you, you are not alone.



Just three days removed from these events, Americans do not yet have the distance of history, but our responsibility to history is already clear: to answer these attacks and rid the world of evil.



War has been waged against us by stealth and deceit and murder.



This nation is peaceful, but fierce when stirred to anger. This conflict was begun on the timing and terms of others; it will end in a way and at an hour of our choosing.



Our purpose as a nation is firm, yet our wounds as a people are recent and unhealed and lead us to pray. In many of our prayers this week, there's a searching and an honesty. At St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York, on Tuesday, a woman said, "I pray to God to give us a sign that he's still here."



Others have prayed for the same, searching hospital to hospital, carrying pictures of those still missing.



God's signs are not always the ones we look for. We learn in tragedy that his purposes are not always our own, yet the prayers of private suffering, whether in our homes or in this great cathedral are known and heard and understood.



There are prayers that help us last through the day or endure the night. There are prayers of friends and strangers that give us strength for the journey, and there are prayers that yield our will to a will greater than our own.



This world He created is of moral design. Grief and tragedy and hatred are only for a time. Goodness, remembrance and love have no end, and the Lord of life holds all who die and all who mourn.



It is said that adversity introduces us to ourselves.



This is true of a nation as well. In this trial, we have been reminded and the world has seen that our fellow Americans are generous and kind, resourceful and brave.



We see our national character in rescuers working past exhaustion, in long lines of blood donors, in thousands of citizens who have asked to work and serve in any way possible. And we have seen our national character in eloquent acts of sacrifice. Inside the World Trade Center, one man who could have saved himself stayed until the end and at the side of his quadriplegic friend. A beloved priest died giving the last rites to a firefighter. Two office workers, finding a disabled stranger, carried her down 68 floors to safety.



A group of men drove through the night from Dallas to Washington to bring skin grafts for burned victims. In these acts and many others, Americans showed a deep commitment to one another and in an abiding love for our country.



Today, we feel what Franklin Roosevelt called, "the warm courage of national unity." This is a unity of every faith and every background. This has joined together political parties and both houses of Congress. It is evident in services of prayer and candlelight vigils and American flags, which are displayed in pride and waved in defiance. Our unity is a kinship of grief and a steadfast resolve to prevail against our enemies. And this unity against terror is now extending across the world.



America is a nation full of good fortune, with so much to be grateful for, but we are not spared from suffering. In every generation, the world has produced enemies of human freedom. They have attacked America because we are freedom's home and defender, and the commitment of our fathers is now the calling of our time.



On this national day of prayer and remembrance, we ask almighty God to watch over our nation and grant us patience and resolve in all that is to come. We pray that He will comfort and console those who now walk in sorrow. We thank Him for each life we now must mourn, and the promise of a life to come.



As we've been assured, neither death nor life nor angels nor principalities, nor powers nor things present nor things to come nor height nor depth can separate us from God's love.



May He bless the souls of the departed. May He comfort our own. And may He always guide our country.



God bless America.

Dales flying camera


Met Dale Kobetech on the beach this morning, the underwater camera housings he makes are among the best made and his photography work is excellent ( like his tidepool/sunset shot at the bottom) Today he was testing a remote controlled flying platform for his Canon 7D. He spoke excitedly about flying it just ahead of the feathering lip of 8' Rincon in the clean morning light.When he makes that happen it should be amazing.

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9.10.11


Saturday morning saw rain, hail, lightning ,distant thunder and messy surf conditions but it was a wonderful weather display out on the beach.
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Thursday, September 8, 2011

nice afternoon


Every day is a gift, but there`s something special about a Sept. afternoon like today, after a hot day working.
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Wednesday, September 7, 2011

summer winding down?

Finally real hot this week, had to get away from work to cool off ( water`s cold -62?) The SW swell direction is pretty sectiony but I`m not gonna complain.  I count myself blessed to just get in the water today
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