Saturday, January 30, 2010

I`ll pass

looked like this today, I chose not to participate
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Friday, January 29, 2010


I actually worked all day and the surf was weak this morning.This evening I went to my usual spot to check it out after the rains, lots of sand has been moved around, and the sandbar extends much further out now. Water quality is suspect and there is a decidedly foul smell, but mother nature will get it cleaned up.

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Wednesday, January 27, 2010

The economy sucks , I have no jobs going right now, I have nothing to do but surf all morning, waaaaahh!waaahh!(I`ll remember these days fondly once I make some money again.)
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Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Big Rincon saturday

photo lifted from "Santa Barbara Surfer"
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The forecast was for south wind and rain, as of noon I`m yet to see either. I had the day off expecting rain but ended up surfing instead. Fun waves with a medium crowd, 
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Monday, January 25, 2010

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Sunday 1-24

I checked the pier early and it was good. Looks like I`ll surf after church and before football.  
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Friday, January 22, 2010

cold and stormy

Another day of cold and stormy weather, didn`t even get to the beach today. I came across these pics on a Maine-based website and had to ask myself if I`d still be surfing if I lived in those latitudes?That shot of dawn patrol down east is hard to comprehend, water in the 40`s and air in the teens. 
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Thursday, January 21, 2010

Still stormy but SSE wind this morning has cleaned things up a bit. One guy out at HB and a few trying Blackies. Water quality is pretty suspect. 
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Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Storm surf

Howling south wind blowing into the barrel of big storm surf was impressive, pouring rain and gusting winds. Only saw one kite surfer in the water between Bolsa and Bl
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Friday, January 15, 2010

Dawn 2 Dusk


Click this photo , then run the slideshow.

Early friday

The third day of swell, this thing doesn`t want to stop!
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Wednesday, January 13, 2010


The rain stopped and I had to get to the job, but did manage to squeeze in some fun surf time. Sometimes overhead and a managable crowd.
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Rain early and so no work, pulled into the lot to see surprisingly clean surf, I forgot my wetsuit so I`m home to get it but I`m going back down right now. 
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Monday, January 11, 2010

home break

Nice conditions this evening, not Rincon`s reeling perfection or some kelp-sheltered Goleta rock reef, but still pretty good and a great way to end the day.
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Sunday, January 10, 2010


Got back home last night, the local surf was walled and I was tired so I stayed onshore. 
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Thursday, January 7, 2010


I had to go north today and caught Rincon this afternoon on a rising tide, on a beautiful warm day.I caught a few waves but nothing great.Finally i found myself in the right spot right time and caught a chest high emerald beauty that spiraled so clean and pure, Helen Keller could have surfed that wave.I rode it all the way across the cove to the sand and then got out, figuring that was as good as it was gonna get. Blessed! 
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Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Day off

I spent all morning chasing leads and bidding jobs but ran out of things to do at lunchtime. I took an hour to just sit in the sun and read, think about things, finetune my perspective and came to realize that this day without a job was a gift .Why worry, it achieves nothing, sit back and enjoy the day, tomorrow will take care of itself.


Another great day, peaceful at the beach but no swell. I also have no work and nothing but open surf time, I wish there was a little something to ride. Maybe tide push later? Wishful thinking..... 
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