Monday, December 31, 2012

New Years Eve-too cold to surf!

36 degrees with offshores, I`ll go out a little later.

Friday, December 28, 2012


I couldn`t stay to surf but felt pretty blessed to watch this moon drop into the South Bay.

Saturday, December 22, 2012


There were some great waves this AM, 40 degree air with offshores blowing felt too cold for me, I`ll go out when it warms a bit.

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

no rain

Nice weather finally, cold and breezy, water colder .

Monday, December 17, 2012

Rain day

The rain stopped, wind was light, water quality questionable but a quick risk/reward analysis said "give it a go"

Saturday, December 15, 2012

Not much surf but a glorious morning for after storm beachcombing

Thursday, December 13, 2012

70% chance of rain

100% chance of tiny windswell

Sunday, December 9, 2012

some of the better shots I`ve gotten over the years

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Monday, December 3, 2012

 This afternoon-rain stopped, wind stopped, tide dropped and it changed everything. caught some fun before the schools got out.

Rainy Monday

South wind drizzle, no one out @ Blackies so you know it's bad

Friday, November 30, 2012

Surf report 11-30

SE wind, wet west swell, surfiable but not very tempting

Wednesday, November 28, 2012


Morning coffee at the pier before work, calm before the storm, with good sized west predicted for tomorrow

Saturday, November 24, 2012


Not sure what lurks out there today but gonna find out

(Turns out it was well worth the efffort)

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Steep drops and racy peaks. I was thankful for a "dry hair" paddleout on a fairly consistent swell and a few backside screamers before getting out to go to church. Thankful!!

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

harvest time

The surf looked very good this morning. A deeply ingrained sense of responsibility sent me off to work without getting any. Maybe tomorrow....

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Pretty morning after some light rain, infrequent sets brought out the weekend crowds.

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

This afternoon was warm and beautiful, it made me forget some of the junk I`m stressing over and just be grateful for the every day wonders.

Saturday, November 10, 2012


New camera arrived-post storm air temp of 49 and 60 degree water, kind of jumbled but should clean up with less tide.

Friday, November 9, 2012

Thursday, November 8, 2012

good music over some classic footage

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Sunday, November 4, 2012

Sunday 11-4

Another pretty day, surf was lacking 

Saturday, November 3, 2012


Great start to the day, pretty and warm, surf wasn`t much but there was some so I`m grateful.

Friday, November 2, 2012


Finally a little surf, nice weather too

Monday, October 29, 2012

Equipment failure

Time to gear up,the waterproof point n'shoots are all dead and the shutter on my Canon went out. I am down to the GoPro and IPhone

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Santa Ana`s to blow tomorrow, if they blow too hard they`re gonna blow our little west swell back out to sea.. Our weather and surf haven`t been too good lately so I`m looking forward to whatever Friday brings.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

alternate methods

I surfed this morning and had a good time, nice shape on the rising tide. This afternoon was hot and glassy and I decided to blow up the 4G and give it a go, instead of my board. Just the mat, some mismatched fins and trunks. More fun than I expected. I loved the perspective as I dropped down the pitching face, side slipping and grinning like a kid.

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

weak day

Been out surfing the last few days but weak swell and fat high tide has been making things pretty slow. Water still very warm.

Sunday, October 14, 2012


Dribbly swell but a glorious morning, I surfed down at the river and the waves were more fun than they looked from shore. Grateful again

Sunday, October 7, 2012

2012-10-07-sunrise service

Waves still rolling in , water still warm, I am grateful for  another beautiful day

Friday, October 5, 2012

I know what I said about commitment to work and all yesterday, and it`s all true. But I couldn`t help myself today, evidently I have a........ "problem"

Thursday, October 4, 2012


I really enjoy this time of year and the waves have been pretty good for the last few weeks, to the point of becoming a distraction.I`ve found surfing adversely affecting my work schedule and job performance, being self-employed allows a fair amount of flexibility but I need to tone it down a bit and pay more attention to my business. Fortunately the swell seems to be backing down and the weather/ winds have gotten fluky.

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

stellar afternoon

 The wind stayed down and the tide went out and it was a beautiful thing. I surfed in trunks with 70 ? degree water and high 70`s for air temp. Surfed till dinner, went home a happy man.

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Newport Championships

good weather and SW swell in the water.  (These shots don`t show the hightide backwash that would blast you right off the wave face )I`ll wait for the tide to drop and hope the wind stays down.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Wednesday, September 26, 2012


surf was good all over this AM, I surfed 56th but it was good everywhere

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

West swell

Nice morning, looking for good surf as the tide drops

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Day #21,595

Today is my 21,595th morning alive. Beautiful sunrise , warm water. I`m so grateful for life Lord. Help me to always cherish the world you`ve given.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Last of summer

There has been good surf all this week with good conditions holding till mid-day. I really had fun today, lots of waves

Monday, September 17, 2012

TS Kristy

 S.E.swell threw some nice surf our way, made for a nice long lunch break.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Weekday surf

Very hot inland but cool here, not much swell but fun enough water.near 70 again

Tuesday, September 11, 2012


Remember always,,,,

(my apologies to whoevers art I lifted here, nice work)

Thursday, September 6, 2012

2012-09-06 Early bird special

I got in early to catch more of this swell while it lasts. Georgeous sunrise with fast wally lefts

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Red Flag

Competition at the peak was tough , I floated wide to pick up the crumbs...tasty,tasty crumbs!

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

back to school !

My favorite time of year began today!
                                   Swell smaller but conditions were clean and the crowd was way down. I got more waves than usual, having a great time till hightide backwash became a problem. Grateful!

Sunday, September 2, 2012

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Perfect storm

All the elements for the perfect storm have come together- long Labor Day weekend, withering heatwave inland, and swells from a large southern Hemi combined with short period hurricane swell from Baja. You can expect to see anything and everything out there this weekend. Heads up and smile in the line-up!

Friday, August 24, 2012

75 degrees

Surf was marginal but the water was warmer than the air and I couldn`t pass up a chance to trunk it this morning

Monday, August 20, 2012

Back to work

Swell is dropping but still fun

Sunday, August 19, 2012


Still pretty wally but more tide helped.Crowd was brutal, I got one wave in an hour, finally drifted away to the west and took scraps.

Saturday, August 18, 2012

At dawn I found myself hunting from Sunset to Laguna, looking for the "grass that was greener" Turns out the ol" local rivermouth was as good as any.