Thursday, July 31, 2008

Afternoon @ Uppers

I had to work all day but when a phone call came in ,asking if I wanted to go to Trestles ,the answer was yes. Good swell, manageable crowd and great sunset. Excellent for the mental health.

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Wednesday, July 30, 2008

summer`s on

Tried to surf today, negative tide and south wind early, by the time I got back it was blackball, no parking spaces, Mom`s and kids with sand toys. Maybe tomorrow
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Monday, July 28, 2008

nowhere to go

I surfed today just for the exercise and because I`d already burned the gas getting there. Lots of walls with no room to move. 
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Saturday, July 26, 2008

Morning glory

More SW swell today, walled at the wide open spots, but there were still good waves to be had. As usual, proper wave selection is always rewarded.
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Thursday, July 24, 2008


The swell angle changed and most spots were walled this morning, I ended up at the point mid-morning because it wasn`t affected by the west wind and wasn`t crowded but it was nothing like yesterday. Still fun though!

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Wednesday, July 23, 2008


It took awhile to pry myself away from work. The crowd at the point was impossible so went to 56th. Not as good but still alot of fun. Crowd was thick.

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SE swell

Whenever the swell angle starts coming in under 180 degrees there`s one place you have to check. When it`s right special things happen. There were 12 guys at daybreak enjoying the benefits.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Monday madness

I cleared the morning to surf and drove to trestles to catch the rising tide and some weekday surf. I was surprised to find the parking lot overflowing, (red curbs too) and at least 100 guys spread thru Uppers. I still had fun and managed to snag a set wave or 2.

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Sunday, July 20, 2008


We`ve waited all week for this swell to arrive but the conditions that came with it have spoiled the fun. Negative low tides at dawn, heavy marine layer and south winds have compromised the quality. I enjoyed a coffee at the pier and went home dry. There`s hope for tomorrow.

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Saturday, July 19, 2008

south swell & lots of south wind

Funky conditions early, side wind and crumbly
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Friday, July 18, 2008

just waiting..

The new swell is slowly making its way in. The tide was too low this morning and the wind is blowing this afternoon. Saturday on the rising tide should be good
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Tuesday, July 15, 2008

The worm

Surf was weak and wally but I went out anyway. I`d already burned the gas getting there and as you can see, the scenery was real nice. Being the early bird has its rewards
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Monday, July 14, 2008

Sunday scenes

Not much swell here in Orange Co this Sunday,but still a nice day to check the beach. The forecast isn`t calling for much surf this week so maybe I can get more work done

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Sunday, July 13, 2008

Day of rest

I started my day at the beach as usual, weak surf and a west wind sent me home early to just enjoy a day of rest

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Friday, July 11, 2008

October`07 scrapbook

Not much surf out there today. I looked twice and just wasn`t interested in what was rolling in. Here`s some pics I shot last October at 45th and 56th.It was tough to stand on the jetty watching others getting barreled, I shot these quickly before getting out there myself

Thursday, July 10, 2008

fade away

The moderate combo of swells we`ve had lately pretty much faded away overnight, the south eddy is still with us and the beach has been more June-gloom than summer lately. Look for a new SW to come in Friday night.

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Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Obama in `08?

The more we learn about this guy, through his statements, the better! He claims to be a change for the better but he appears to be as disingenuous as the next politician!

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Teen Challenge at work in Africa

I met a man tonight named Kevin Ward who heads up Teen Challennge Swaziland. What an amazing man doing God`s work(Google "swazitc" to check the site)He takes in orphaned youth from the streets and provides them with Christian care. Swaziland has lost over 1/2 million people to AIDS over the last 2 years,1/3 of their population It was heartbreaking to hear the stories of deprivation and abuse that is the lives of these kids but great to hear of the work God is doing in their lives with Teen Challenge
Surrounded by the Republic of South Africa and Mozambique, the Kingdom of Swaziland is a beautiful mountainous country of 1.15 million residents. It is the last remaining absolute monarchy in Africa and known as the most peaceful country on the continent.

We have a nation which has much potential, with its current leadership being found in his Majesty, King Mswati III.

Unfortunately, we have endured a prolonged economic decline for the past ten years; two-thirds of Swazis live on less than USD $1 a day, nearly 25% of the population requires food aid, and unemployment has risen to a staggering 40%. Stark as the economic prospects are, these pale beside the scourge of HIV/AIDS, which has ravaged the tiny kingdom. At 43%, Swaziland's HIV/AIDS rate is the highest in the world. HIV/AIDS has left a burgeoning orphan population of over 60,000 children, which is predicted to grow to 100,000 by 2010. If left unchecked, the current economic social situation will lead to untold misery and suffering for children, families and communities. The next five to ten years are critical as Swaziland attempts to address the escalating challenges ahead.

PO Box 1141, Mbabane, Kingdom of Swaziland

Phone: (268) 404-7685 or (268) 404-5452

Email: or

Home History Swaziland Mission Ventures Leadership Partners Support Us

Monday, July 7, 2008

tide push

The negative low tide at 7 am had things pretty drained. I went out late morning on the rising tide and found some fun ones.

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