Friday, August 24, 2012

75 degrees

Surf was marginal but the water was warmer than the air and I couldn`t pass up a chance to trunk it this morning

Monday, August 20, 2012

Back to work

Swell is dropping but still fun

Sunday, August 19, 2012


Still pretty wally but more tide helped.Crowd was brutal, I got one wave in an hour, finally drifted away to the west and took scraps.

Saturday, August 18, 2012

At dawn I found myself hunting from Sunset to Laguna, looking for the "grass that was greener" Turns out the ol" local rivermouth was as good as any.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Nice afternoon


Not much surf this morning, pretty sunrise though

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Sunday at home

Another warm summer day, swell combo is wally and the west wind is moving early but it sure is nice to be enjoying a lovely day at home. Grateful, Thanks Lord.

Thursday, August 9, 2012

trunking it at sunrise, clear warm water and just enough swell to be fun but not crowded

Tuesday, August 7, 2012


Landed at noon, checked into the hotel, lunch at Duke`s and then paddled out for some of this. Pretty nice day

Change of scene

Vacation time

Monday, August 6, 2012

SE swell

Warm water, sunshine and the long-period SE swell, not much juice but better then nothing.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

darned nice day

Great weather, warm water but still waiting for that SSE swell to show....

Saturday, August 4, 2012


                                             charging the froth
I went out just because it was better than not going, but crowd, wally, southwind crumble, lot`s of things working against it.

Thursday, August 2, 2012

More nothing

Wanna surf but the surf's not there