Tuesday, August 31, 2010

work work work

Just work today, work , work, work....gotta make some dough, don`t even think about waves, keep your head down ...work damn it! 
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Monday, August 30, 2010

last gasp

The recent run of south swell was heaving it`s last gasps this morning,more local windswell than groundswell. I walked into Uppers early, wishing for something more than t-shirt and shorts, Autumn`s coming early. I didn`t get any quality waves but did have a couple thigh high glossies levitate me smoothly over eel grass and cobble bottom, made it worth the hike.Still no work,so might as well surf.<
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Sunday, August 29, 2010

Friday, August 27, 2010

Another day with no work, tough week financially but I`m making good use of my free time. Swell still rolling, water still cold, scenery as pretty as ever. I ruined a few good waves, surfed like a retar....a mentally challenged individual, always just a step late or in the wrong place. Just one of those days but fun anyway. Thanks Lord for the beautiful day!

Thursday, August 26, 2010


Still hot inland, still southy at the beach. Hope to catch some if the wind stays down.
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Tuesday, August 24, 2010

more summer

It took its time getting here but it finally feels and looks like summer. Surfed after work again today, just because yesterday was so much fun. 
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more swell

Working now but I intend to get some later 
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Monday, August 23, 2010

happy endings

Got in a full days work, ended the day with a nice evening session. Walked out under the rising moon, smells of sage and sycamore. Drank a Pacifico in the lot and then drove home happy. Blessed indeed! 
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warm air/cold water

Warm air floating over 54-57 degree water created a weird ground fog this morning. I`m working all day but will get some surf this evening. 
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Sunday, August 22, 2010


The same lumpy combo of S & SW, and local windswell,coupled with 54 degree water. I stayed on the beach. 
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Saturday, August 21, 2010


If you ever wondered what a south swell in January would be like, you found out today. Shifty, sectiony south walls and side currents coupled with 56-57? degree water made for a tough morning. My fingers were numb and I fell off my last wave because I couldn`t feel my feet when they hit the board.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

summer & winter

Surfed after work just because.... it was hot all day and I just wanted to get wet. Water was winter cold, but it felt good to cool off. 3/2 wetsuit in the middle of summer
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Monday, August 16, 2010


The reports today showed some very weak swell and reported water temps between 53-59 degrees!It was a good day to stay at work. 
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Sunday, August 15, 2010


Day of rest, Sunday Times travel section, cup of coffee good message at church, afternoon nap. The surf today was soft weak summer wimpiness ( not like the pic below), didn`t go out. 
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Friday, August 13, 2010

ding repair

I broke the center fin of my old 7-11 recently and have finally gotten around to putting it back on and tuning up some shatters. I`m not good at ding repair but enjoy the attempts to get the repairs to be fairly smooth, with consistent contours and a nice smooth wet sanded finish. The last few nights, after work, I grab a cold beer and head to the sideyard to sand the layer applied the night before.This old board (16 yrs ) may not look worth the effort but I`ve had lots of good waves on it and the therapeutic repair work is fun too! 
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Thursday, August 12, 2010


I`ve gone to watch the first 2 contests but don`t know if I`ll get to this one. If you have the time it makes for a nice road trip, you need to get your name on the list by calling the base. 
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Tuesday, August 10, 2010


Not much swell today, looked at it twice but thought going back to work was the right thing to do
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Monday, August 9, 2010

Birthday present

As a gift to myself, I blew off work this morning and hiked in to Uppers.Offshore, head high sets, kind of crowded, finally got a sneaker set all to myself, made my day. Followed it up with huevos ranchero at SC Cafe. Beautiful.  
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Sunday, August 8, 2010


funky this morning, swell is soft and crumbly, went home to read the Sunday times and relax with the family. 
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Saturday, August 7, 2010

Randoms from photo album

home again

nice to be coastal and cool again, surf tomorrow? 
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Friday, August 6, 2010


Visiting my Dad for a couple days,beautiful up here but HOT!Summer is on up here 
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Tuesday, August 3, 2010

summer`s eve

Worked all day pouring concrete but took a drive south to get some surf this evening. Green glassy fun , with a beer and Pedro`s tacos to finish the day. Thanks Lord!
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