Thursday, July 28, 2011

after work

Long hot day at work, cooled off with a nice surf after, head high sets and very trunkable water
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Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Spiritual Activity

"I wish that when they asked us: What is surfing? I would have said it's a spiritual activity, and not just a sport, because that's what put us on the wrong track...
NAT YOUNG 1966 World Surfing Champion

Tuesday, July 26, 2011


Even camping on the beach doesn`t guarantee you`ll be the first one out. Camping is illegal on Newport and Huntington beaches but that sandbar at the river mouth is federal land and not subject to local enforcement. Still, I don`t imagine the locals will welcome much more of this.
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Pay for Parking Coming to a Surf Break Near You Santa Barbara Surfer - Surfing News & Events for Santa Barbara, Goleta & Carpinteria

Pay for Parking Coming to a Surf Break Near You Santa Barbara Surfer - Surfing News & Events for Santa Barbara, Goleta & Carpinteria

Sunday, July 24, 2011

going mobile

Early morning surf checks help point out the number of semi-permanent residents at the local state beach.I`ve seen the same rigs every morning for some time.

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Saturday, July 23, 2011

Friday, July 22, 2011

old files

just looking at old files..liked the feel of this one.
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summers eve again

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set wave

This was about as good as it ever got today. Beautiful weather with weak surf
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Wednesday, July 20, 2011


Surf was pretty weak, gloomy at the beach early with some west wind. Good morning to just drink your coffee and head off to work slowly
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Tuesday, July 19, 2011

life`s so good...

Beautiful day, Thanks Lord, lucky to get out and enjoy it!

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Sunday, July 17, 2011

bunny slopes

Inconsistent fun this AM, I decided my stitches were well enough to get back in the water today and I had more fun than expected, given the weak swell.Crowd was light water was nice and it`s just too nice a day to not enjoy it.
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Friday, July 15, 2011

State beach

The state made a good move when they allowed the Irvine Co to develop the other side of PCH in exchange for leaving the bluffs/beach public. I finished the week there with a surf check and some peaceful moments in the sun.Said a grateful prayer 
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Summer is nice. Still swell in the water, the sun broke the gloom at noon, I`m working at the beach. I just wish I had time to go surfing
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Tuesday, July 12, 2011

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South swell still strong

Nice waves still rolling onto local beaches but I`m not getting any for awhile- my dermatologist removed a skin cancer from the top of my balding head .Decades of SPF 0 has left its mark and 18 stiches to cover the damage.Hats and sunscreen loom large in my future
(Forgive the graphic depiction )
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Monday, July 11, 2011

nice day at 56

I worked all day so didn`t get any myself but it looks like it was a great day at the beach
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Saturday, July 9, 2011


fun-sized south this morning....wally, some backwash but much better than the anemic soft windswell we`ve had lately
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