Autumn Afternoon

I left the jobsite about 1:30 and headed down to check the surf. The air was warm and still, and the sea surface was sheet glass. We had an extreme low tide so things were kind of walled , but there were good sections to be had. I had a nice stretch of beach break all to myself and nailed a few nice sets. Rode the Bonzer today. I`m still trying to figure it out but today I like it. For fast ,down-the-line surfing it works.
Afternoons like this are rare, and make nice memories when we return to our normal wind-blown afternoons. October is my favorite month because of days like these.

Another red dawn thanks to the fires.