surfing in OC, an appreciation for creation and God, our creator!
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
summer`s gone
The last day of summer felt more like May gray or June gloom, I paddled out for awhile this afternoon to say goodbye to Summer, hoping the ledgy chop would give up a nice section or two. I got pitched a few times and chased some wobbly closeouts but the water felt nice and the exercise was good for the head. Bring on Fall !!
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