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Sunday, January 4, 2009

stronger pulse

Finally we saw signs of life today. I checked it out on the way to church and was pleased,definitely goig to surf after early service. I started to paddle out at my usual spot but it looked like mainly closeouts, so whitewatered in and drove to HB instead. Not as much juice but better shape, when I caught my first head-high Sano-esque left I knew I`d chosen well. Good to surf on a suny Sunday.


 
 
 
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