Equipment failure

Time to gear up,the waterproof point n'shoots are all dead and the shutter on my Canon went out. I am down to the GoPro and IPhone

Santa Ana`s to blow tomorrow, if they blow too hard they`re gonna blow our little west swell back out to sea.. Our weather and surf haven`t been too good lately so I`m looking forward to whatever Friday brings.

alternate methods

I surfed this morning and had a good time, nice shape on the rising tide. This afternoon was hot and glassy and I decided to blow up the 4G and give it a go, instead of my board. Just the mat, some mismatched fins and trunks. More fun than I expected. I loved the perspective as I dropped down the pitching face, side slipping and grinning like a kid.

weak day

Been out surfing the last few days but weak swell and fat high tide has been making things pretty slow. Water still very warm.

Sunday

Dribbly swell but a glorious morning, I surfed down at the river and the waves were more fun than they looked from shore. Grateful again

2012-10-07-sunrise service

Waves still rolling in , water still warm, I am grateful for  another beautiful day

I know what I said about commitment to work and all yesterday, and it`s all true. But I couldn`t help myself today, evidently I have a........ "problem"

distraction

I really enjoy this time of year and the waves have been pretty good for the last few weeks, to the point of becoming a distraction.I`ve found surfing adversely affecting my work schedule and job performance, being self-employed allows a fair amount of flexibility but I need to tone it down a bit and pay more attention to my business. Fortunately the swell seems to be backing down and the weather/ winds have gotten fluky.

stellar afternoon

 The wind stayed down and the tide went out and it was a beautiful thing. I surfed in trunks with 70 ? degree water and high 70`s for air temp. Surfed till dinner, went home a happy man.