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Tuesday, September 6, 2011

after Labor Day...


School`s back in session, warm breeze walking through the canyon, uncrowded surf. Nice way to start the week.
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Sunday, September 4, 2011

Friday, September 2, 2011

sheltered


Went looking for some shelter from the relentless walls and paddling, nice afternoon to start the long weekend.

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Thursday, September 1, 2011

SW to start Sept.


mostly walled and the hightide got backwashy, but it had its moments. I worked all day,but will get some tomorrow...


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Wednesday, August 31, 2011

8/31 54-56


glassy-overcast-hightide-backwashy-crowded-building swell-I had to work

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Tuesday, August 30, 2011

gopro


Trying to figure out the GoPro, range is pretty close and water spots on the lens are a problem , but I`m having fun learning. The surf was better than expected this morning and the crowd was light now that some of the schools are back in.

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Sunday, August 28, 2011

Sunday-late August


Another pretty morning, going to get hot today, semi walled south but still had more fun than I deserve

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Saturday, August 27, 2011

not great.... but great

Daybreak at the river didn`t look like much ,a weak jumble of swells from all over the map, but I`d told myself I was surfing "no matter what". Once out there I was glad I`d come, the surf wasn`t much but the water was warm, the hazy sunrise was pretty and every so often a decent shoulder to ride.
One shoulder high backhander rolled my way and I was pleased to enjoy its energy as it kept popping up all silvery in front of me as I squinted into the rising sun. I heard myself say Thanks Lord as I turned out the back.The wave wasn`t much but it was a nice gift I`m glad I was there to receive.
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