Daybreak at the river didn`t look like much ,a weak jumble of swells from all over the map, but I`d told myself I was surfing "no matter what". Once out there I was glad I`d come, the surf wasn`t much but the water was warm, the hazy sunrise was pretty and every so often a decent shoulder to ride.
One shoulder high backhander rolled my way and I was pleased to enjoy its energy as it kept popping up all silvery in front of me as I squinted into the rising sun. I heard myself say Thanks Lord as I turned out the back.The wave wasn`t much but it was a nice gift I`m glad I was there to receive.
No comments:
Post a Comment