blessed

I had to go north today and caught Rincon this afternoon on a rising tide, on a beautiful warm day.I caught a few waves but nothing great.Finally i found myself in the right spot right time and caught a chest high emerald beauty that spiraled so clean and pure, Helen Keller could have surfed that wave.I rode it all the way across the cove to the sand and then got out, figuring that was as good as it was gonna get. Blessed!