surfing in OC, an appreciation for creation and God, our creator!
Thursday, September 25, 2008
go long
I pulled out the longboard and paddled out for the 1st time in a month.The broken ribs are still sore but I was pleased to paddle into some hightide chest-highs and pop right to my feet.( I`ll have to take it easy for awhile) Water felt great.
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