back2work

southwind eddy, negative low tide and lot`s of work today kept me onshore all day. The swell was dropping fast this afternoon.( Rick Griffin artwork just because...)
 

TS Celia

Swell everywhere today, I surfed the point with 100 others 
 
 
 

bring it....

OK, its been summer for at least 3-4 days now, bring on the south swells and lose the spring south winds. It has been a bad few days for surf, I go down at dawn looking for that SE swell to sneak in but nothing yet
 
 
 

shorebreak

I had a pretty good time just riding glassy HB shorebreak today, there wasn`t much surf anywhere else and it was good aqua-therapy for me. School`s out soon so get your mellow days in before the waves are swarming with school kids/ school teachers. 
 
 

fathers day

Soft and crumbly again but I went out anyway because that was how I wanted to start Fathers day. I was grateful to be able to paddle out and enjoy the new day, grateful for my father, grateful for the kids and wife who`ve made me a father, grateful for so much. Thanks Lord 
 

again

I`ve been kind of frustrated this week, south winds and weak swells have come together to create less than ideal surf. I`ve wanted to surf for many reasons (it`s fun, it relieves work -related stress, it`s exercise, etc. etc.) but the conditions have been so marginal that I can`t justify the time as well spent, so I just go back to the responsibilities I was trying to get relief from , maybe tomorrow will be better. 
 
 

not..

Our surf was not like this today, southwind hack again. This shot is from the Pt. Mugu contest last August.
 

monday morning

I got away from work for some surf today, still pretty walled but glassy grey, short-sleeve springer ,fun section kind of day