sober facts

There I am, sitting in the warm sun reading the Sunday paper. I`ve been through the travel section, the front page and local section when I turn the page to a photo of a 24 yr. old who gave his life in service to his country. Listed below his picture are the names of another half-dozen young men who also gave their lives this week. It was a sobering realization that as I sat my middle-aged self in the sun poolside, there are Americans stationed around the world protecting our freedoms. I felt grateful,...and a little guilty. 

LeRoy Grannis

I was reading an article about "Granny" on the LegendarySurfers.com website- http://www.legendarysurfers.com/blog/. I enjoy the stories of the early days of surfing on the West Coast and recommend the article highly. LeRoy Grannis is 90 now and living in an assisted living home in Torrance. 

day off

 
Small and dribbly again today. No one out at most places early. I enjoyed the daybreak and a cup of coffee before heading home to have a productive day off.

windswell

The surf has been pretty weak the last few days, windswell and bumpy, a short section here and there if you`re patient and lucky 

Recommended reading

I really enjoyed this book. Surfing is the major thread followed as the author explores not only legendary surf spots, but the mental and physiological effects induced by the act of wave-riding. Some of it goes deep and is beyond my pay-grade, tough to understand all of it , but I felt it was time well spent as I finished it. Fascinating subject matter laid out by a talented author. 

36 hours in Kauai

Spent Sunday night and all day Monday in Kalapaki , Kauai on the south side. No surf , but warm water and relaxing on the beach with my wife. 
 
 

Morning drive

West winds early had most spots pretty junky, there were a few sheltered spots to be found. I`m working today so no surf for me.

wasted

The wind was up early this morning, putting a funky crumble on the walled south that`s in.Another day to get some work done. I`m hoping to salvage a surf tomorrow before this swell wastes away.