a little better...

The sun was out, the wind was down and there was a small swell. I pulled into an empty space with time left on the meter and surfed for less than an hour but it sure helped get my mind right.

 
 
 

Shark Encounter

This story didn`t make the local paper, as far as I know, and the HB chamber of Commerce would prefer it doesn`t get too much ink, but I find it an item of interest to many of us

CA Surfer Whacked By 15 Foot Great White Shark Off Huntington Beach.


From Pacific Coast Shark News, March 7, 2008:

On March 7, 2008 Thomas Larkin was surfing with two friends. He recounted the following; “I was surfing a 6’6” Avisco (carbon fiber) Surf Prescriptions Bat Tail Quad. I paddled out at Dog Beach near Huntington Cliffs around 7:10 in the morning at a pretty full high tide.



I was waiting for a set for about 5 minutes when I felt a jolt down on the tail of my board, immediately followed by violent bubble cascade, which sunk the board down about another 8 inches. I didn’t really get what was going on as quickly as I should have, but as soon as it begun it had ended and I was apparently alone again. A wave popped up, I paddled into it but pearled because of the water in the nose of my board, I quickly got back on and paddled into the whitewater of the next wave and boogie boarded it to the beach where I emptied the board through the apparent bite mark.” The diameter of the bite suggests an adult White Shark in excess of 15 feet in length. Caution should be exercised when utilizing this location for your ocean water activities. Please report any shark sighting, encounter, or attack to the Shark Research Committee.

Santa Ana River

I`ve surfed the river mouth as long as I`ve been surfing, it`s my home break. It can be really good sometimes and there is always something to ride there.
The river starts high in the San Bernardino Mountains ,cold clear water charging down through rocky gorges, but then slowly winds its way through the heavily populated inland empire and Orange Co. By the time time it gets to Coast Hwy. it`s carrying a lot of questionable material, but it also carries the sand that forms such nice sandbars for swells to sweep over. I do get sick surfing there sometimes but when the swell is right I`m not too worried about my health. Every good thing has its price! 
 
 
 

grey day

 
Deep marine layer and a west wind blowing early made the surf less than appealing. Took a walk on the beach as day broke and headed home to other projects.

More taxes

( lifted from Rincon surf blog)
According to Surfrider Santa Barbara's Scott Bull, Santa Barbara County Supervisors are working on a plan to charge parking fees at all beaches and parks (including Rincon) in a long list of revenue items. "It’s outrageous that they even consider using the parks as a County fund-raiser to balance their budget! So now, unless we act strongly and quickly, these parking fees will become a permanent income stream to the County, from us. Once in place, we will have to pay to enter our own public spaces, forever into the future!" Bull encourages everyone to contact all five Santa Barbara County Supervisors immediately and tell them to keep our parks free for the community!
I`m surprised it`s taken them this long to propose these fee`s. Here in OC I pay to park while surfing most of the time. Street parking is usually scarce and you either feed a meter or have an expensive state pass to surf HB. (And I don`t know how much $ i`ve blown by staying in the water till my meter expires and finding the meter maid has nailed me.)

friday 5/29

 
 
 
 
Nice and clear early ,warm too, but the swell wasn`t much. I waited ten minutes to get these shots( it wasn`t near as good as it might look) and decided to head for the job early.

sky surfing

Still not much surf around. I`ve been down looking but there`s not been much to paddle out for. I found this picture from 8-9 years ago, skydiving was fine once but I`d rather not risk it again. And walking to the door and stepping out was scary. I`ve done it and can cross it off my list.

 

Steve Valiere

 
 

Back in high school (1970) a friend of mine had an older brother who was a great athlete, dated the prettiest girls and surfed really well. He could have gone to college on a sports scholarship, which was what his Dad wanted, but chose instead to do some surf traveling. He left for the South Pacific and Africa at a time when we thought a trip to K55 was exotic and never really came back. His pioneering surf travels have been detailed in The Surfers Journal. He eventually settled on Kauai to raise a family and turn out colorful surf art. Check out "The Art of Steve Valiere" on line