heat waves

Not much surf this morning, but great conditions and 95 degrees in town said "go surf"

fat moon

Warm pre-dawn darkness, fat full moon setting at the west end of my street, I called it a "late start " day at work and got a few waves early. Fully blessed by a beautiful morning. ( Surf was inconsistent and fading on the rising tide.

salty 10.11.11

10.09.11

A goood start to another beautiful day, surf was weaker and the swell is dropping out but I still have to be grateful for mornings like this.

Morning Glory

Amazing October morning, so beautifully created, so grateful to just be in the water. The light crowd, good combo swell, and light offshores were a bonus. I even got a nice left barrel. Thanks Lord!

Friday 10.7.11

Slow at work, sunny warm day, surf report sounded promising so I blew the day off and went surfing. Good for the mental health.

rain day

Rain and winds all morning while working, called it a "rain day" at lunch, only to have the sun come out and the winds lay down. I made the best of the situation.

Change of scene

Left Newports fading swell and redtide diarrhea for a couple days in the Sierra with my Dad. I really like to visit up here but will be back in the water Monday