spring conditions

Tried to surf today, stood and watched a long time but it wasn`t happening. Went back to work dry. 
 
 

The south swell was still with us but dying, side-shore wind early and a fat high tide had things a little funky. I`d planned to surf but felt going to work was the thing to do.

 

spring break

Checked it early and the south was still strong 
 
I left the jobsite mid-morning and surfed up around HWY 39, head high sets with very light crowd. Stong side current and lots of paddling. I didn`t surf well but it was nice to get some exercise
 

elsewhere..

Ended up on the north side, good shape, overhead sets and brutal crowd.Only one wave to myself in an hour. 
 
 
Peace memorial on the beach reminds that all our good times and blessings come at a steep price

Steep south

Checked the SE spot early and some swell was getting in there ,but the shape wasn`t that good. 3 guys out at dawn and lots more looking so I bailed and went elsewhere. It was a beautiful sunrise, cold on the beach. 
 
 

finally some surf

It was cold and short-interval windswell but finally had some energy. A contest on one side forced the crowd to concentrate on the other, weekend congestion at the pier, but there were good sections if you were patient or lucky
 
 
 

Surf art by Steve Valiere

 

I awoke this morning having surfed in my dreams last night.It`s amazing how the human brain can travel while the body sleeps. My dream took me to places I`ve never seen or been to, paddling for waves on beaches that may not exist, warm water, foreign languages and strange faces. Makes for a nice vacation and didn`t cost a dime!

April

The surf the past 3 days has just been small.wimpy, and hacked by the south winds early. Ive been checking but have had to just turn my back on it and go back to work,not much in the near forecast either.