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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

one year blog-iversary

 
I`ve been at this blog thing for one year today, I`m not sure exactly why I put the time into it, my wife and kids don`t get it , and not many people look at it. Yet, I enjoy creating something each day, I enjoy carrying my cameras around ,hoping to get a good shot.I enjoy searching for material to post ,surf related things of interest, or social commentary. I imagine the process is good for my brain and it is just fun.( it sure beats doing crossword puzzles) Thanks for checking in.
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Sunday, September 21, 2008

Habitat

This morning I went down to Capistrano to work on a Habitat for Humanity project. I always enjoy it. This time there wasn`t enough work for the people who showed up, but the weather was great and it was nice to spend time with folks from church. ( I checked the surf on the way down and it looked pretty good)

 
 
 
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Friday, September 19, 2008

Friday dawn

 
Went down early to look, the wind was already starting to stir and the waves were walled. Beautiful sunrise and cool salt air. I went off to a full days work . I think I`ve got 2 more weeks till my ribs heal enough to surf.
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Thursday, September 18, 2008

afternoon heats


Checked the surf at lunch. The swell was fighting a really high tide but it still looked fun. Warm sunny day!
 
 
 
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Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Contest


Nice conditions for a contest today. I`d like to sign up in the senior division just to get this place with only 3-4 guys in the water.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

early surf photography

 
I found this shot online. Its reportedly George Greenough shooting surf films in the 60`s. You can bet that thing is heavy, expensive, and not waterproof.Can you imagine sitting in the channel on a canvas mat with that thing on your shoulder? The pioneers of surf photography blazed a rough trail.
Local surf was off today. Cold (60?) water, early winds and low tide made for tough going this morning
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Saturday, September 13, 2008

freight trains

The low tide had things pretty walled this morning and there were plenty of Saturday morning surfers trying to make the best of it.Every now and then a clean section rolled through.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Friday morning

 
The SW swell is dropping but it looked fun. Still wally with current but there is some windswell coming in that makes for some good sections. Evidently the water temp is still ok also.
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