cliffs 2-09

Not quite dawn patrol, the sun was just breaking the horizon. I paddled out at the Cliffs to surf for an hour or so. Got a few waves but 15-20 minutes between sets left lots of idle time.

Warmth....

I took a "mental health day" just to get some things done and have some work done on the company truck. I`d hoped to surf but there wasn`t much swell and the fat tide swamped what little there was.Still , it was nice to stand on the cliffs in the warm sun and watch the sea roll in.

clean but small

I couldn`t get out there today. I drove down to look but was called back to work before I could get in the water and away from the cell phone. Hoping for tomorrow........

I worked, I surfed, I voted.....

Storm`s passed

Local conditions were nothing like this picture but at least it wasn`t raining. H.B. was jumbled with a ripping side current but the short period swell at Blackies looked promising. By the time I broke from work the wind was on it but chances for surf tomorrow look good!

Blown

Rolled through the Blackies lot early, raining and windblown. I was surprised to see one guy out, and wondered "why?". But I know that surfing isn`t always just about the wave, maybe you just want peace and solitude, or some moments to think, some exercise.... does there have to be a reason at all?

Molly`s 18

My daughter Molly turned 18 yesterday and is now an adult. We went down to the pier for breakfast and then she was off to do her own thing. I still vividly remember her , one minute old ,as she turned her head to look at me for the first time.

All work and no play......

Had a serious weeks work to get done, and managed to handle it with jobs done on time and profitable . I almost got to surf yesterday but by the time I got my gear together the wind was on it. Today I only got a quick look at the river from PCH on my way to CDM. I`m hoping to join the weekend crowd tomorrow but the conditions may not be good.