Wednesday windswell

Surf wasn`t much but much better then nothing at all. Water was warm, I think I can hang up the fullsuit till November

Memorial Day

Surf was pretty weak this morning but at least there was a little to ride, allowing us grown adults to get in the water and play like children.
 God bless America and thanks to all who have died for our freedoms !

early bird

textured ,dumpy windswell with a side order of backwash , I did my best to enjoy what was out there

Big Wednesday

http://www.goletasurfing.com/terryremick.html       Go here to view a nice background piece about the movie Big Wednesday on the Goleta Surf site-

It didn`t look like much from the parking lot but went anyway to find it surprisingly fun . Light crowd +  dropping tide + Andreini quad = happy boy.

Friday

Surfed for the first time in weeks. I ignored doctors orders and just went. Great day and felt great.

Recently ,years of sun damage caused some skin cancer to show its nasty self and my dermatologist removed a piece of my lower eyelid, grafting on a patch of skin from behind my ear to cover the cancerous void. It was a medical procedure for which I am grateful ,yet hoping to never repeat. Surfing was declared off limits during recovery as he had dubious feelings regarding the local water quality also stating that he didn`t want me to pop a stitch. Two weeks out of the water so far and he`s saying two more to go, but things are healing nicely, the wound seems watertight, and now we just need some swell with nice conditions.

lifted from the Surfmatters blog