after work

Long hot day at work, cooled off with a nice surf after, head high sets and very trunkable water

Spiritual Activity

"I wish that when they asked us: What is surfing? I would have said it's a spiritual activity, and not just a sport, because that's what put us on the wrong track...
NAT YOUNG 1966 World Surfing Champion

campers

Even camping on the beach doesn`t guarantee you`ll be the first one out. Camping is illegal on Newport and Huntington beaches but that sandbar at the river mouth is federal land and not subject to local enforcement. Still, I don`t imagine the locals will welcome much more of this.

Pay for Parking Coming to a Surf Break Near You Santa Barbara Surfer - Surfing News & Events for Santa Barbara, Goleta & Carpinteria

Pay for Parking Coming to a Surf Break Near You Santa Barbara Surfer - Surfing News & Events for Santa Barbara, Goleta & Carpinteria

going mobile

Early morning surf checks help point out the number of semi-permanent residents at the local state beach.I`ve seen the same rigs every morning for some time.

Day at the Beach

everyone was there

old files

just looking at old files..liked the feel of this one.

summers eve again

set wave

This was about as good as it ever got today. Beautiful weather with weak surf

donut

Surf was pretty weak, gloomy at the beach early with some west wind. Good morning to just drink your coffee and head off to work slowly

life`s so good...

Beautiful day, Thanks Lord, lucky to get out and enjoy it!

bunny slopes

Inconsistent fun this AM, I decided my stitches were well enough to get back in the water today and I had more fun than expected, given the weak swell.Crowd was light water was nice and it`s just too nice a day to not enjoy it.

State beach

The state made a good move when they allowed the Irvine Co to develop the other side of PCH in exchange for leaving the bluffs/beach public. I finished the week there with a surf check and some peaceful moments in the sun.Said a grateful prayer 

Summer=nice

Summer is nice. Still swell in the water, the sun broke the gloom at noon, I`m working at the beach. I just wish I had time to go surfing

South swell still strong

Nice waves still rolling onto local beaches but I`m not getting any for awhile- my dermatologist removed a skin cancer from the top of my balding head .Decades of SPF 0 has left its mark and 18 stiches to cover the damage.Hats and sunscreen loom large in my future
(Forgive the graphic depiction )

nice day at 56

I worked all day so didn`t get any myself but it looks like it was a great day at the beach

7.9.11....

fun-sized south this morning....wally, some backwash but much better than the anemic soft windswell we`ve had lately