Gratitude

 (photo lifted from Surfing Heritage Foundation)

Be grateful.Gratitude is one of humanities highest emotional states and takes conscious effort to achieve. Lately I`ve had plenty of things to complain about (and have complained plenty, have felt sorry for myself and been an ass to live with) A week or so ago I had a day when I felt so blessed that it was almost criminal, I didn`t deserve the rich life I am leading, but somehow I let life`s challenges get the best of me and I slipped into a negative state.
But today I am grateful and thank God for so many things , things that are all around us every day if we just lift our eyes to see. This weekend I`ve seen a young couple marry and start a life together so full of promise, I`ve experienced the bittersweet joy of the father-of-the-bride dancing with his daughter on her wedding night( knowing that one day I`ll be dancing with my own daughters-man,I need dance lessons)I`ve been pained by the struggles of my own father as he wrestles with the challenges of growing old and diminished capabilities. I`ve been blessed by the love our family has shown for him as we pull together to help and honor him. Today I watched my daughter receive awards and praise at her school swim team banquet, and while thankful for her athletic achievements, I was most impressed by the moral caliber of her teammates. Thank you Lord for friends like hers that support and love each other.
The things that bring me joy today are just bits of every day life, repeated over and over around the globe. Humans going about the business of living. Sweet, sad, painful rich living. Thank you for it Lord and forgive me for those times when I get so wrapped up in myself to see clearly.

Saturday morning

Still no surf, the town is slowly getting it`s weekend started, joggers and dog-walkers are out early 
 
 

mind surfing

 
Nothing much to surf on around here lately, just lots of work to do. I would really enjoy a little aqua-therapy if we could get something over knee-high to roll in.

pure Joy

I love this image (lifted off Surfline) the look on that little ones face is pure joy. Good job there Dad!

 

Memorial Day 2009

 
Take a moment to think about the sacrifices made by generations of Americans before us, who have laid the foundations of the lives we enjoy today, and also be sobered by the thought that we too are laying a foundation for those who come behind us. Thank you Lord for the blessings we enjoy in this country

weekend surf

I went down early with the mindset that I was going out no matter what the conditions. I shopped around before deciding it was pretty much the same all over,suited up and paddled out with dozens of others. I spent an hour watching others get some decent rides but I was frustrated, always in the wrong spot, chasing the wrong wave, or just out-paddled by the other guy.As I get older I have to realize that there will be more days like this and accept it. You just keep getting out there and giving it your best.
 
 

holiday weekend

The parking lots were filling early and there were plenty of people in the water waiting for the predicted south swell, (which has yet to arrive). I drank my coffee and enjoyed the sights before heading off to more productive pursuits. 
 
 
 

more surf art

There is still no swell in the water, it has been a pretty dismal spring with lots of wind and small surf.I like these paintings by Kevin Short so I`ll post them instead of pics of our flat surf. 
 

surf art

One of my favorite pieces by Wolfgang Bloch, he will be featured along with many others at the Surfing Heritage Foundation on June5 in San Clemente 

this tuesday vs last tuesday

Cold ,dreary and weak this morning, a huge difference from the bottom shot of where I was last week. I`m working way hard to make up for last weeks vacation so there is no time for surf this week anyway 
 

Sabbath

Today I`m just thankful for so many things. My trip south was wonderful, yet it`s so great to just be home.Thank you Lord for all our blessings. 

back to reality

I`ve been home an hour, flew 2500 miles since breakfast and now need to get to the jobsite. I`ll go through my photo`s and post some tonight  

gone surfin`

Gone to warmer climate this week. Never been there , not sure what I`ll find there but I`m going. Adios 

Mother`s Day

Lots of reasons not to go out today, low-tide, windbump and walled, but a lot more fun than I expected. I heard myself say "thank you Lord" as I dropped into the first left. 

the good, the bad, and the ugly

Another rough crowd at the pier this AM 
 
 

WNW @ the pier

I wanted to surf today , there was wind early but the pier looked OK. I just didn`t see room in the water for one more guy.I worked instead. 
 
 

better than yesterday

It seems I haven`t actually surfed in some time. It looked better today but I had way too much work to get in the water. Tomorrow.....there`s always tomorrow

 
 
  Oh good I`ve been looking for someone to fix the blown head gasket on my hookah!

Monday

It wasn`t as windy as predicted but it was as weak and high-tidy as predicted. I sipped my coffee and went off to work