last of August

Still smooth after work and some good waves on the tide push. Warm air, warm water and some waves for logging. Blessed again 
 
 

Friday night gone bad..

 
Sometimes the dawn patrol reveals ugly remnants of the night before. I came acrosss a crime scene clean-up crew working at dawn this morning.Broken plate glass and bloody sidewalk,this scene could not have ended well for those involved

Gracias Ignacio

Our swell continues, today TS Ignacio sent some inconsistent but clean surf to the east side of the pier 
 

appetizer

Had a long, hot day at work. I stopped on the way home to wash the dust off and get another taste of our south swell before going home for dinner.
 
 
 

uppers

Went to Trestles today- more sunny day, more overhead south swell, more guys in the water,the crowd was competitive and brutal,but still a great way to start the day.
 

monotonous..

Same old sunny day, same old beach, same old head-high south swell, so repetitive..thanks Lord, this is great

 
 
 

tues 8/25

Nice swell still rolling, still walled and crowded. I spent an hour competing for waves, got a few ,but the late morning backwash finally chased me out. 
 
 

Sw walls

Our local beaches aren`t taking this swell very well, most places are walled and crowded.  
 

More Ventura Co.

 
 
 
 

Ventura Co.

The U.S. navy hosted a surf contest today. The surf was challenged by the hjgh-tide, backwash and bouncy conditions but still threw up some good sections 
 
 

blew the dust off

Finally some swell showing, inconsistent and high tide but it felt good to blow the dust off and get in the water 
 
 

still weak

It`s hard to get excited over anything rolling onto our local beaches, looking forward to Saturday
 

low energy

Not much out there and it`s gonna get worse before it gets better. A good week to get things done. 

Waiting for Guillermo

I was at the SE spot looking for swell fom TS Guillermo, surfed there but it just wasn`t the right angle/tide/?Maybe tomorrow. 
 
 

fun

2mm spring suit, waist high and glassy, inconsistent but better than nothing 

workday surf

The swell is dropping and conditions were funky but the water is warmer, nice to take a break from work for a short surf break