This report was lifted from today`s Rincon surf blog:
After Months of Anticipation, First Real Swell Arrives at the PointA good friend just called to tell me that he was in the water from 1:00 until 5:00. and stated further, "It just kept getting bigger and bigger!" He said that the sets were a solid 2 - 3 feet overhead, and that the waves were very juicy...I myself took a chance and drove down to the point this morning, hoping to catch the swell forerunners after the tide drop, and this strategy seemed to work pretty well. I arrived just after 9:30 am and had the area between the top of the cove and the rivermouth pretty much all to myself. While it was flat between the sets, about every 15 minutes or so a solid 3-wave set would roll through, some as big a shoulder- to head-high. I surfed until I had to leave for work (1:00 pm), and for me it was one of the most memorable opening-day sessions I've ever had. It was so hard to leave! I didn't bring my camera as I am thoroughly surf-deprived, and will need to get at least a few sessions in before I get behind the lens... Unfortunately (for me) I won't have another opportunity for a couple of days as me surfing will be pre-empted by work-related commitments...
After Months of Anticipation, First Real Swell Arrives at the PointA good friend just called to tell me that he was in the water from 1:00 until 5:00. and stated further, "It just kept getting bigger and bigger!" He said that the sets were a solid 2 - 3 feet overhead, and that the waves were very juicy...I myself took a chance and drove down to the point this morning, hoping to catch the swell forerunners after the tide drop, and this strategy seemed to work pretty well. I arrived just after 9:30 am and had the area between the top of the cove and the rivermouth pretty much all to myself. While it was flat between the sets, about every 15 minutes or so a solid 3-wave set would roll through, some as big a shoulder- to head-high. I surfed until I had to leave for work (1:00 pm), and for me it was one of the most memorable opening-day sessions I've ever had. It was so hard to leave! I didn't bring my camera as I am thoroughly surf-deprived, and will need to get at least a few sessions in before I get behind the lens... Unfortunately (for me) I won't have another opportunity for a couple of days as me surfing will be pre-empted by work-related commitments...
Goodbye October! Man, that went fast. 55 days till Christmas. I came home from work to another of my wife`s halloween pumpkins on the porch, she does a great job with them.
I went down early and watched an amazing sunrise from the pier parking lot. The surf was weak and the tide was coming way up , so it was a good day to just put my head down and get some work done. The conditions last week had me a bit distracted and the jobsite demands my attention.
I guess we`re all down here looking for something, and there is sometning good for all of us. I come down every morning to check the surf, but many days the surf is my secondary concern. The Bible says Creation is proof of our Creator and I enjoy coming to see each new day begin here. The sunrise each morning and the way the light plays on the clouds, the ocean surface, the cool of the dawn. All of these things are gifts to us, and if somehow God moves the oceans to create waves that I can ride on, I`ll take that gift too!
It is a day for costume surfing with the Blackies bunch today and they were having fun despite the weak surf. I couldn`t bring myself to go out today, after a week of warm golden, glassy waves, it didn`t seem worth the effort. Last night I saw the red glow of the fires burning up Saddleback, so the smoke and ash are still with us.
I`m currently remodeling a backyard in Newport and noticed the young wife hauling out trash and trying to straighten up some clutter. As I went out to the truck I noticed she`d just thrown 3 years of her husbands" Surfers Journal" in the can. I scooped them out for one more reading and then will probably trash them too. I subscribe to Surfer but lately find it a little too busy, too A.D.D for my tastes . Surfers Journal is pricey but what a joy to look at.
I left the jobsite about 1:30 and headed down to check the surf. The air was warm and still, and the sea surface was sheet glass. We had an extreme low tide so things were kind of walled , but there were good sections to be had. I had a nice stretch of beach break all to myself and nailed a few nice sets. Rode the Bonzer today. I`m still trying to figure it out but today I like it. For fast ,down-the-line surfing it works.
Red dawn at the Cliffs
Reaping the whirlwind.......
October always brings warm days and Santa Ana winds, ..... and often brushfires. The Malibu Colony is burning right now, Malibu Presbyterian Church was one of the first losses and many homes are threatened. Despite the threat ashore, I`m betting the Point is crowded with surfers enjoying what the wind does to the combo swell.
This is what sunset over Lake Ponchatrain looked like last night. It rained on the way in but soon cleared. The shot below is what the new bridge construction looks like. The existing bridge was submerged during Katrina.
That`s a FEMA trailer out back
The dawns early light showed the swell was not there. I chose a short stack instead, and read the paper before heading to work. The Shack is a great little piece of surf culture itself, owned by a surfing family and son, Timmy Turner is a good surfer and great filmmaker.
I looked at it early and was almost relieved to see no waves . I need to buckle down and get some serious work done. I`m putting up some shots from a Nicaragua trip last month. Good memories....
